348 +B engine bullet connector replacement?

Woke the car up this weekend for the spring and changed the oil. When I pulled the airbox to access the oil filter, I noticed the +B bullet connector (engine side) was broken and the connection was basically floating. Some previous attempt was made to ziptie it in place but not effectively. Really surprised I never noticed any power issues, but just got the car last November and only got 3 short drives in before storing for the winter.

Searching around here it seems these replacement housings are unobtanium and best move is to just replace the inline with a battery cable direct from battery to the starter post? Not an issue to get that made up, I work in automotive in this space.

Additionally, found the MAF-to-intake hose clamps VERY loose and found remnants of a mouse hanging out in the airbox (exterior side of the filter).

All this on a 14k mile cream puff. Rest assured, she will be getting much better care and attention going forward!

-Eric

 

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No more zip ties! For now, I'll clean any corrosion off the terms, apply dielectric grease, secure the two connectors together with multiple wraps of electrical tape across both connector housings, and then secure that "assembly" to the bracket with a zip tie.

For your project (and what I'll be doing as well), you'll be replacing #45 in the diagram (battery to inline) and part of #52 (inline to starter+alternator) that runs from inline to starter. Or you could remake the entire run. It's not clear to me yet how they spliced the joint of the starter/alternator/inline cables but it doesn't feel very robust and my current plan is to cut, de-solder, etc that run and keep the alternator cable intact and double stack rings at the starter (provided there are enough threads).

1AWG is good, just make sure you use a SAEJ1127 cable and not a generic welding cable, preferably SGX. Reasoning is, at 80C ambient SGX can carry 236A where as SGT is only good for 165A at only 50C ambient.

Goodluck and let us know how it turns out! I need to get a drawing made up and send it in at work to get a "test cable" made

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Excellent, you’re in good shape on crimp and cable quality! Just took some measurements to help you out. As for the stud, doesn’t look like there is any room for an extra ring term to be stacked. Existing starter term is a double crimp to inline and Alt. Also not much room in the Z direction as it may interfere with the rear mount holder. I may end up making a whole new single cable from battery to starter and alternator instead of 2 separate ones (battery to starter, starter to alternator). Assuming the starter stud has a ring term or fixed connection inside the housing and not able to remove externally to lengthen.

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