Baby gots new shoes!!!

Well, I have been struggling with the wheel swap issue since I bought the car a little over a month ago...Finally pulled the trigger on these. Factory upgrade 360 modulars. I could not believe they made a ride/handling issue difference!! Car feels totally different for the better! Fronts are 215/45/18 & surprisingly no rubbing on the fenders, I was hoping I would not have to roll them & it appears I will not Rears are 275/40/18 & when you roll them up next to the stock wheel& tire, wow what a difference!! The 275's are much beefier, again fit right in no issues.
I ordered new Stillen rotors (drilled) for the added look the drilled rotors will add, they will be on next week. I know some do not like the cross drilled, however for normal street application they really do not matter.
The calipers I did myself with about $30 in materials...If you wish to do yours its a 2 day project (day for prep/paint & another to sand). Here is how to do it:
1. Raise & support vehicle safely.
2. Remove wheel- 22mm socket.
3. Spray caliper with brackleen or some other brake cleaner spray solvent.
4. I than wiped down caliper with a rag that had some "total prep" on it. Bascally just a solvent for final cleaning before paint.
5. lightly sand any blemishes with a fine grit paper (I did not have to do this, you may or may not)
6. Mask off wheel wells with paper to block overspray
7. Mask off rotors & tape brake line to caliper to cover it from spray, take time to do a good job masking & taping so no overspray gets on pads, rotors, wheel wells or your work area floor....
8. Spray LIGHT coat of your choice of caliper paint color (Any auto parts chain will have tell them you need CALIPER paint)
9. wait around 10 min spray another LIGHT coat, repeat in 10 min if you wish a third.
10. On my paint you must recoat within 1 hour or wait 7 days for curing so keep that in mind.
11. Wait around 1 hour CAREFULLY remove tape & masking not to disturb fresh paint, carefully put wheel back on (unless you have a lift & than you obviously can skip this) Bolt wheel up & move to next wheel.
12. Now, wait a few days+ if you can for paint to set up & now jack up to remove wheel.
13. Get a square electric sander (you could use a block but you better be prepared for a arm workout if you go that route) I put a bit of duct tape over & below the "Ferrari" just to help protect a slip of the sander from scuffs in paint. What you are sanding is the "Ferrari" a couple lines & a arrow that are a raised surface above the caliper. First sand I used around a 150 grit, I used that to remove the paint & sand down to the metal raised surfaces...not brain surgery just go easy be patient the 150 grit takes it down fast & evens out the surface. Once you happy with that you got it "bright" again take a hand sander or swapr to 800 grit or finer...sand with that & it will almost "polish" the finish.
14. Put wheel back on stand back & say "Damn!! I did a nice job & saved hundreds" !!
15. While you got wheels off wash the insides & wax them, dirty job but worth it to make wheels look new again.

I am sure some will improve this method but it worked for me & results were stellar. Obviously safety is a concern with lifting the vehicle as well as DO NOT paint the rotors (any overspray can be removed by spraying brakcleen on a rag & wiping it off) I would not spray directly since paint is still fresh.

Good luck!!
Chris
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360 Modular wheel: 7.5" +31.5 Front; 10" +38.95mm Rear
Thats from user "no doubt" site. I believe those are correct for this wheel.
Here are some pics, nice part was no rubbing at all.
I also have a set of spacers I took off the original wheels if anyone wants to swap spacers & wheel bolts for the factory 55mm wheel bolts I will do it.
The spacers are 20mm rear (x2) 18mm front (x2) 75mm bolts (x20)
I will swap for ORIGINAL Ferrari 55mm wheelbolts (x20) email me if you want them, I have pics I can email. [email protected]
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