Battery Tender Connection

Hi Members,

I want to connect a battery tender to my 360 I have read other posts but I wish to connect the tender so that it is accessable from outside the vehicle, can anyone here suggest where a good place might be that will give me easy access to a connection point outside the vehicle.

Obviously connecting to the battery terminals is a simple place, but it appears difficult to get access to the outside of the vehicle to mount a plug, and I dont want to cut holes if possible

I noted on other posts that some members are plugging tenders into cigarette lighters, can a problem be created by connecting a small current battery tender to any such live circuit on the vehicle??

Any suggestions will be appreciated

Kipper

 

As you noted, of course, others are doing it, so it shouldn't pose a problem IF the car keeps the cig lighter working when the key is off. Gotta check that first!

What I have been meaning to do is mount my Battery Tender Waterproof to the car itself, so I have a 120V plug accessible outside. I'm not sure what scenario that's really going to help, but it seems to offer the ultimate flexibility. Note that the Waterproof is the only one they recommended for permanent mounting.

 

I don't know what on-board charger you are considering, but I highly recommend the "Schumacher" brand, automatic unit (turns itself off when fully charged). It is also about the best you can buy with regard to circuit protection electronics, etc. With that charger (and I would assume with any other charger), it is VERY IMPORTANT that you connect its charging leads ONLY directly to the battery terminals --- there are several reasons for this which you can read about in their literature.

Then, what you can do if you wish to have more convenient, remote access to plug it in without raising the bonnet, etc. is to run an extension cord from the (short) charger's AC lead to a place underneath the car (or wherever you wish). With the correct length cord you can route wherever you need to place it wherever and to avoid cutting any holes. Also, make sure to install a protective, water-tight cover on the exposed plug terminal to prevent road grime contamination and corrosion when it's not plugged in.

This is better (and safer) than extending the charging leads or trying to tap them into some location on the battery's HT harness.

 

Thanks all for your comments,

What I actually want to do is mount a plug externally so that i can plug the charger in when i need to without the need to open a bonnet ect. I did the same on My lambo however this was easy as the battery is under the left wheel arch and easy to access and to mount a plug nearby.

On the 360 somewhere under the back where it is accessable would be a good place, maybe if i connected to the main lead to the starter ect. I guess i was wondering what others are doing before i go hacking around. ( dont even know where the starter is mounted yet) I must go looking

The charger that i use is a nice electronic regulated unit approximate 1.8 amps perfect to keep the system topped up

Regards
Kipper

 

The problem with an external connection is the possibility of driving off with the tender still connected. (please don't ask how I know this

I have the tender connected to the battery on the 550 with the hood ajar. Not only do I have an extension cord hanging down from the rafter, I have a red light on the dash showing hood open if I start the car with the tender still connected.

(I'm a belt and suspenders kinda guy)

 

Assuming the cig lighter socket is always "on" that is the easiest, and you will never drive away with it plugged in.

You can get a plug with a cord at Radio Shack that you can splice on for $8 or so.
http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=3802148

It is safe to close the door on the cord, the soft rubber door seals will collapse around the cord, and not pinch it.

 

My tender is connected by pigtail from battery through the 308's grill using a Molex socket. Driving off, the connector easily pulls free but the ugly pigtail is obvious drawing sneers from the crowd. Direct connection to the battery allows the battery (ground) to be disconnected. Disconnecting the battery also prevents driving off but having to get out again to raise bonnet and reconnect the battery draws snickers from the gallery.

Solar cell recharger without wires is good, however, batteries on solar chargers go dead during Oregon winters. Windmill charger with microwave rf connection? Best yet is driving every 2 weeks.

 

I imported my UK 360 to Australia when I emigrated and use a battery conditioner plugged into the cig lighter. My cars been using the same conditioner plugged into the cig lighter since 2004!

However if your car is an Australian delivered 360 the cig lighter will not be live with the ignition switched off. (This is an Australian ADR requirement).

FYI most battery conditioners are rated at 14v 1A. 1.8A sounds a little high to me. Be very carefull what you are doing as these cars have very sensitive electrics and electronics. You could do some expensive damage.

In response to the above post you certainly do not want to disconnect the battery on a 360 or you will have to go through the self learning procedure every time you want to go for a drive. (Disconnecting the power wipes the memory in the ecu's) Like I said earlier these cars have lots of electronics in them.

 

Hi Paul,
When you isolate the car by use of the knob under the bonnet are you in effect disconnecting the power from the car and therefore resetting some of the learning in the ECU,S ?

What you are doing with your pigtail is the same concept as i am planning to do

 

Hi Dkilka

Correction, the charger that i am using on the Murci is a Micro based 1.2 amp/hour unit, can you please comment on my post today to Paul regarding the isolation of the battery by means of the black knob under the hood. I thought that if you did this it is the same as dosconnecting the battery?

Kipper

 

There are no ECU memories to be lost on a 308. There are on a 360, and according to Rifledriver (master Ferrari tech) it is preferable not to keep losing and relearning the parameters over and over. Best to always keep the battery connected and topped up using a battery tender.

 

this sounds like the most logical thing to do, but i would not think the parameters would get really messed up, only the radio..

 

You would have to search for his posts, but I believe he had experienced a few cars with idle issues and running issues that were from people that always stored their cars with the battery switched off. Apparently stopping the practice and using a battery tender corrected the issue.

 

Yes, radio clock etc - everything bears a price and of course is totally impractical on later cars with computers. But I feel better in the winter months with tender connected and car totally disconnected. I'm intrigued by a diode isolated circuit to a tiny 9volt dry cell battery to maintain radio settings but that project although fairly simply, is low on the list. Most drives never have the radio on anyway and long drives the stations change every 30 minutes with the area anyway.

 

G'Day Kipper,
Correct, if you turn the knob under the hood you disconnect the battery and WILL wipe ALL THE ECU CODES as well as the radio etc. The car will then have to go through a self learning process when you connect everything back up and start her again. (Do a search on the 360/430 forum for instructions on this if you are interested. Its not complex but is a pain in the ass and takes approx 30 mins).
Battery conditioner/tender is definately the way to go. Like I say I've been using one since I aquired the car in 2004. Best way is through the cig lighter as you are not messing with anything but like I said if your car is Australian delivered your cig lighter won't be live with the ignition switched off so you won't have this option. This is an ADR requirement (Australian Design Rules) that the cig lighter is off with the ignition in case a child is left alone in the car.

Hope this helps.

BTW your tender should be ok at 14V 1.2A. However I recommend buying a proper battery conditioner. This will trickle charge and then discharge your battery (cycle) before repeating the process. This is actually a good process for your battery.

The 308 is a completely different vehicle and is considerably older than the 360. You cannot compare the two. I am sure that what Paul 308 is saying is ok for his car but you WILL have issues if you do the same for your 360.

D.

 

Another brand to consider is made by CTEK and I only mention it because they make the ferrari unit. Remember that if the 360 trunk is not completely closed the computers wake up and there is a 342 ma current draw. After about 20 minutes, the current draw drops to about 24 ma but only after the trunk is closed. It is easy to attach the charger pigtail to the battery in the footwell (in a 360) and run the wires out window that has been lowered an inch or two. And if something goes wrong, the door opens easily. There is a four pin connector by the brake resevior that factory charger connects to and it bypasses the large battery disconnect switch in the trunk. It runs to a relay and a fuse and then to the battery. During the winter, I disconnect the battery using the trunk switch and then about once a month, I plug in a cetk charger for two or three days. I don't like the idea of having a charger connected for months because they sometimes fail. FWIW

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86 tr, 99 360 3pedal

 

Thanks Jeff,
Your info is very informative, can you please give me a little more detail about the connection next to the brake resevoir. more specifically about the plug, what does it look like ect,

Where does a relay come into play with this plug, I would like to know more detail about the circuit behavior before i just connect to it, a 4 pin plug but are only two wires used?

If this plug is a good connection point then i should be able to find a good way out to the underside of the front for a socket location

I understand your concern regarding the connection of a charger long term, i tend to share your sentiments on this one, My plan is to connect the charger say for two days if i have not driven the car for a week or two. As you are already aware if you have not driven the car for 2 weeks and leave it another few days well then it becomes a pain in the arse.

Look forward to your assistance here

Thanks again

Kipper

 

Kipper: The connection for the factory unit uses a short cable and the bulkhead connector on the panel covering the brake fluid resevoir. I think the cable has four wires in it and it conects to a relay and a fuse behind the driver (left) seat. The battery has a small ground wire that also runs toward the same relay. The relay allows the battery to charge when the trunk disconnect switch is used. The factory manual is very difficult to trace wiring and some components are even mis-labeled. But you still have the problem of having the trunk slightly open which causes the 342ma draw. The ctek pigtail has three leds lights that also show battery charge and it is easy to attach to the battey.FWIW.

Jeff Pintler
89 348tb, 86 tr, 99 360 3pedal

 

Thanks Jeff,

I will go looking and give it a go

Thanks again Kipper