BBI 17 in wheels, power and some musings.

Much debate here. Ive been runni 17 in wheels from carobu for a decade or so, and last summer replaced the tires.

After driving Newmans K oining which had 215 fronts, was converted tot he narrower is better for fronts view.

Normally a Michelin man but for Tires went with Conti extreme contact sorts, because they had the sizes and frankly great reviews, in terms of steering feel response and ride. Currently then are 235 45 17 fronts and 275 40 17 rears. Id r
uin those same size rears before and they fit the rear of the car just fine. My theory has always been to plant the rear to minimize the risk of parking rear first through a hedge etc, and this time I wanted to get away from 245 fronts(similar to stock 245) and go as narrow as possible, 235 45 seemed to be a workable diameter in terms of rake and overall ride height, and thats worked out great aesthetically, plus with a heavy rear and lots of rear grip a bit of rake only helps things.

Illa start with overall grip, lets just say thta most any Bb with modern ribber is going to find the seats are the limitation, so dynamics, steering feel and planted rear would be the priortities for enjoyable driving.

As my beloved elise had a minor yet necessary to repair mishap with a deer, (literally the hoof mid fight took out the headlamp, call me lucky) the BB has been pressed back into semi daily service which is always good for the type of bonding with the BB which so rarely happens now that theyre old/collectible.

Goal no1 was accomplished, the steering at parking speeds us significantly lighter than the trx's. Imo while lighter its still a little dead untill about 20-25mph. stock imo it's pretty dead till 60-80. This has been transformative because on tighter smaller roads say above 25 mph the boxer is now just really fun accurate and feedbacky to dive, its actually pointy and easy to place at these lower speeds . So much so that its a whole new experience. Couple that with the big slug of tq and you ca just meet out and lay down the power off an apex, the car hold a perfect unalterable liner and the steering tells you all you need to know..

Back to the issue of power. Im using 100 ocatne race fuel and the car is so much better down low and mid range, its has a sharpness and accuracy to the throttle thats simply not possible with 10% alcohol pump gas. There is an immediacy to the pedal pump gas does nto deliver. Its the same on my efi harley and e46 m3, its also how I remember the car being back in the days of MTBE for octane in fuel.

As to power, I seldom look at the revs, rather ****fting on the power curve as need be, on the flat that would be roughly 6k rpm, imo those flat cams are doen by then, and you're shifting into the power peak. The extra 1k rpm are to me something to use when youre winding out through a corner and not going to shift, or finshing a straight before a bend, because past 6k rpm the power is clearly trailing off. There is one big uphill straight stretch I run it out to to 7k because it is still pulling well in that situation and we were not goign to be getting to 4th before hairpin, then its off the power, engine braking and the uphill to slow down into the bend, out the haripn out to 6k rpm and into 4th..

These are strong torquey motors which are their own sort of joy, but I would love to have a second wind from the high 5k rpms to the low 7s, that would imo add another dimension again. This all being said, its seldom on a backroad you can deploy all the power and speed these cars have when running well. If I have to contrast it with my e46 M3 the answer is Tq lots of it now, and yet unlike a sbc its not lazy and it can still play though a wide revs range accurately for placement and drive out of corners. Definitely replace the exhaist cans so there is more of the right sound. I have a stainless quicksilver copy of the org ansa sport system on stock headers, but Imo the bell single can sounds better still. Were looking for the right sound tone with some improved volume at high revs, without just making noise and announcing your arrival at all revs, like so many modern aftermarket systems on exotics do.,,

Pistons cams and yeah maybe ITBs can only add to the experience esp if ,midrange maintained. Ive always found the brakes to be plenty good with the right pads. Once youre in the groove the car has a flow to it that a modern just lacks with eps etc.

One last observation/thought. These cars were designed as road casr, not to set some magazine laptime. As a result the ride esp with modern tires is simply superlative. On an uneven road surface you can feel each wheel is articulating on the surface while the body maitains composure, the car is not jumping or crashing about as a modern would. That means on real back roads there is comfort and pace hard to get in a modern, yet at the same time the controls are not isloated as the are in say a modern 911. Its pretty uncanny going down a road that might be throwing a modern car about, while the BBi body moves a bit, its mostly the suspension and wheels following the road while the body retains an even keel, thats real road car calibration.

Well thats my car, still very much stock from factory(bought it in 93 when 10yo and just kept it up), added wheels tires pads with stock motor, brakes(calipers rebuilt ferodo 2500 pads) and suspension(rebuilt steering rack) working as they should. Is say mine is level 1 optimzed, level 2 would be pistons and cams and level 3 efi with ITBs pistons and wilder cams.

I personally seriously do not think these cars need different springs or shocks, nor different brakes. Maybe some collars on shocks if need be for ride height(prob not) and maybe some thicker roll bars, or realistically just stiffer roll bar bushings. The key is to keep the character and add to it, keep the flow and retain on road ride comfort, add some dimension without loosing anyhting.

Yeah reall good ac would be a big plus.
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