BBi Engine back in | FerrariChat

BBi Engine back in

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by 2dinos, Jan 29, 2009.

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  1. 2dinos

    2dinos F1 Rookie

    Jan 13, 2007
    3,033
    Only about an hour or less to get the engine from the stand back in the engine bay. Thanks for all of the F-chatters help on prep etc. No bell hsg, no rt alternator. I gotta say, I would have loved to keep the metal water pipes on, but it got way too scary to try and tilt the engine so the crank is pointing way down. So I yanked them. It was still a bit of a trick to get the engine nestled in. You need to yaw the engine a few degrees to keep from trashing the airbox mounts. Otherwise they interfere with the engine mounts. Also, a few inches from done, the gearbox, and crossmember stop a simple drop in. I lowered about 1 cm, tilted engine, pushed fwd repeat several times followed by pulling back to be careful of oil tank. I could've sworn the 308 was easier. One tilt, come down, and level out. Also, the bell hsg can be on. I would love to see Ferrari put in a BBi engine with the engine pretty much fully assembled. I'm getting psyched to go back in there and install the headers. Those forward nuts, what joy to get to!

    Anyone out there put in one of these alone? I started to do it alone, and my neighbor who's very mechanically versed saw my painstakingly slow process came over to help. That was wayyyyy smoother to have a lookout for hoses, and interferance issues.
     
  2. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
    New England
    Full Name:
    David Feinberg
    Bruce,

    I usually put these engines back in without any help...

    To simplify installation, prior to dropping the motor in, I'll often drop one motor mount bolt thru...and then lower the engine. Once the one bolt drop thru the chassis hole, I'll drop thru another bolt on the diagonal and then align (twist) the motor...and drop here in.

    The header nuts can be more easily accessed by removing the lower wheel well access panels...
    And, by substituting a 12mm hex head nut, for the 13mm hex head nut for the header, it's alot easier to get them installed using a 1/4" driver with a wobbly socket. Frequently, I'll "glue" the nuts to the socket with some grease and then snake them on.

    David
     
  3. 2dinos

    2dinos F1 Rookie

    Jan 13, 2007
    3,033
    "more easily accessed by removing the lower wheel well access panels"

    There's a panel that comes off? I thought I pretty much unbolted all that can be unbolted. What panel is this? Are you talking about the whole fiberglass fenderwell?

    Thanks for the tip regarding 12mm nuts. I already bought a set of those anticipating going that route. Originality is getting less important with each part that becomes a challenge. Like the water pipe that connects the water pump, and T-stat. It was suggested to get that from the bottom. I had better luck from the top. Neither is right or wrong, it's just what works.

    Did you ever notice how much clearance do you have from the L- alternator and assoc hardware to the oil tank? I'm able to get a 1/8" piece of plastic through the adjustment nut, and tank. Pretty tight imho.

    Thanks again!

    Congrats for single handing it. I was doing that when my neighbor showed, and I was glad to have help. I have a vivid imagination for sending units / balancer pulleys going thru the back glass as I inch the crane fwd - it sticks then jumps - and the engine swings, and I don't catch it. That would ruin a day!
     
  4. fastradio

    fastradio F1 Rookie
    BANNED Professional Ferrari Technician

    Apr 26, 2006
    3,664
    New England
    Full Name:
    David Feinberg
    If you look closely at the front of the wheel well, near the gas tank, you'll see a couple of bolts...three, as I recall. If you remove these, a small section of the frontmost section of the wheel well can be removed. This will give you easier access to the header studs and nuts.

    The way to avoid puching out the back window is to lower the engine until the crank pulley is "inside the engine" bay, then slide the crane forward to position the engine above the mounts...then come straight down. (This is why I remove the bell housing, as now there's no clearance issues in the rear half of the engine bay. (I still protect the back window and lower trim pieces.)

    Yes...it's a bit tight, here and there....but you do this enough and the issues become insignificant. Practice, I guess?

    The water pipes are always a mild pain and I can never remember how I did it the previous time...

    Have fun,
    David
     

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