(Disclaimer... i am insane) With THAT out of the way... been looking at BBS rims. Dan's 360CS rims were awe inspiring. So... ummm... hints, tips, etc from the experts? Pics of the 360CS rims are at the top... what i like below that. The question is... will they even "work"? And yes, am checking archives but not much info
All four are still for sale including tires mounted/balanced on them. Please e-mail me: steve at enjoythemusic dot com
In front, almost anything will fit. In back, with your smaller OD after market springs 9-9.5" wide will go pretty easily. I've heard that 10" will go, but they start moving out quite a bit which could cause the tire to rub on the fender lip...but dropping down on tire size would help that. I have 285/35-18 tires on and they JUST fit in the wheel well. I also have 10.5" wide wheels, but had to relocate the low shock mount to get them on.
Why not? They look like they have a fair amount of "+" offset (mounting plane shifted outboard) so there's probably plenty of room for an adapter (so that gives a lot of flexibility on a +11mm offset 308QV chassis even if they don't offer a 5x108 BC pattern, but they probably do). If you know (or can get) width, diameter, and offset of the new wheels and make a few ruler measurements on your known existing set-up (to guesstimate the max inboard and outboard sidewall locations, wheel to suspension wiggle room, etc.) you should be able to do a fairly straight forward calculation.
BBS makes wheels in our bolt pattern, but you cannot 'buy them off the shelf.' I am not sure though, if the CS wheels are 19s, the rubber you will have down will be almost nill. 18s in a 5x108 will work, but spacers will probably be needed. Just get a set that is 8" max in the front and 8.5" max in the back and you should not have to worry about hitting the spring. The rubber you need is a 225/40-18 front and a 255/35-18 rear
"Called Tire Rack and they said the bolt spacing won't work" -- And did they also confirm that the offset was not large enough to accomodate an adapter for the BC differences?
They did mention other clearance factors (center hub, brakes, etc). Perhaps i need to call BBS' office in USA... ADDED: Spoke with Bob in the BBS racing division and we are seeing what we can come up with for 18".
Both are a bit much, can you get the middle one you posted? (3rd down) IMO 18s call for a 'thinner design' so they do not look too garish.
Going to a larger diameter wheel will only help with things like brake clearance, and having an adapter also allows for center hub differences too...
Thanks guys. Basically these are nearly the look as the 360CS. Since they are made by BBS am going to see what BBS can do. The photoshop does them little justice. Basically.... see http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/DisplayWheel.jsp?wheelMake=BBS&wheelModel=RXII&wheelFinish=Bright+Sil+w%2FMach+Lip or http://www.tirerack.com/wheels/DisplayWheel.jsp?wheelMake=BBS&wheelModel=RGR&wheelFinish=Bright+Silver+Paint PS: As this may be a "one off", they can make the rims to simply bolt on and be perfect
Steven, You might want to keep this in mind. In your decision process, do you want the look of the wheels to overpower the total look of the car? Or do they add to the overall aesthetic experience?
Great questions my friend! Basically want to update the look, yet also have better/stiffer performance due to smaller sidewalls. The reason i am redoing the suspension/lowering right now is to stiffen up the ride and stop the nose from diving so badly... as stock 308 cars do during hard braking. Also, during hard cornering i feel the car leaning a bit too much. The stock setup may have been good 20 years ago, but by today's standards it leaves MUCH to be desired IMHO for those of us who push the car the way G-d and Enzo would have enjoyed. Of course the newer rims should weight less overall, but we would also need to account for the exact weight distribution of the complete tire/rim setup to determine if the setup not only lowers unsprung weight, but also reduces needed inertia to "drive" the tire/rim combination.
!!! Check this out: http://www.ferrariads.com/cgi-bin/classifieds/classifieds.cgi?search_and_display_db_button=on&db_id=1395&query=retrieval Good price for Cart wheels. AND they are the right bolt pattern.
Thanks my friend for the heads up. Would prefer something that would be CORRECT out of the box (no screwing with spacers, etc).
This is what I would be concerned with. I've been toying with the same issues as you but with a DINO. And I noticed that the original DINO wheels are extremely light. My going to a bigger wheel and lo-profile tires will definitely increase my unsprung weight. Tires with stiff sidewalls are extremely heavy. And then there's the issue with rotational inertia. As I posted awhile back about going to bigger diameter brakes and the resultant loss of HP at the wheels. The look is awesome and it updates the car nicely and it will definitely give the handling a stiffness that is not in the original setup. I hope it works out for you. Your results might sway me in my decision. Good luck, Manny
Manny, Agreed. Have a feeling i'll stay with the current light 16-inch Etoile and dump the Kuhmo rubber for Bridgie S-03. Am already making her stiff due to better suspension/bushing/shocks/uprated springs. Need a month to really "feel" her out with these new bits before making a final decision. Agreed the added unsprung weight is ****HIGHLY**** unwanted. Have been too busy making her reasonably light as it is, so NO desire to add weight.
