Bearing Puller

Have you access to a welder and some materials mate?

I would make a slide hammer tool and weld it to the bearing. VERY easy for me to make here, so thats what I would use. The bearing would probably fall out using that setup.

Or I am sure you can buy one somewhere that will do the job also.

 

If you go welding around in there, there'll be sparks & metal bits splatterd into your oil sump. Not to mention flames.

Call Harbor Freight & get this kit for about the price of a good slide hammer alone:

BLIND HOLE BEARING PULLER


Designed especially for pilot bearings and other jobs that require an internal puller.
3 lb. slide hammer with T-handle for secure grip
Chrome plated shaft for smooth operation
Four collets: 3/8" to 1/2", 9/16" to 11/16", 5/8" to 1", 1" to 1-1/4"
Blow mold case
Weight: 7.6 lbs.


ITEM 95987-1VGA
$39.99
on sale for:
$29.99

I bought one of these back in '01 when I had to change my inner timing drive bearings. Have used it numerous times on them & other blind bearings sice then. Not a Snap-ON tool's finish, but seems to be good hard steel. Don't worry about the fraction sizes listed, the collets are very adjustable & handle metric sizes equally well.
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I remove pilot bearings by packing axle grease in the hole behind it and using a drift
that fits inside diameter of the bearing and a hammer, by hitting the drift into the
grease it would back out the bearing.
wonder if that would work in this case.

 

I think the grease would just squirt out between the ball bearings

 

Well, of course you would be smart about it and make sure the sump area is well covered up so that wouldnt happen. And you would also have a hose handy incase of fire ect...ect...


BUT...........for the price of those tools and if they are readily available, just go and buy em Jagbuff.

I would still just make one, but thats just me.

 

I don't have a photo but what i use on my 308 is an appropriately sized metal raw plug, yes the type that has a threaded screw that expands behind a hollow wall to fix shelves or simiar items.

Put the lip end into inner bearing race hole and then tighten the screw, it expands and puts pressure on the inner bearing race, and if you have a space behind the bearing it grabs the rear lip on the bearing.

In fact if your bearing is large enough you can use a butt ended screw, when it gets in sufficiently it will touch the crank case, stop and then push the bearing out of the seat if you keep turning the screw.

Alternatively use a reverse hammer or a strong vice grip and tap with a hammer.

Simple cheap and works every time.

 

this principle works generally best with sealed bearings, but on non-sealed bearings it's better to use modelling clay or small pieces of soap.

Best Regards from Germany

Martin