Hi all, today I replaced the heater hoses, as I alluded to in an earlier post; the internal bore diameters had deteriorated to such an extent it needed to be done. Today was the first dry day in a week so I took the opportunity and wheeled the car outside so I could have the door fully open to access the hoses. I mentioned that I intended to replace the 16mm ID hoses with 13mm due to the tight squeeze (see pics) however if I could use one 16mm hose, that then only requires one hose with a reducer. The pics give a visual of the cramped location for the hoses, I decided that pulling from the back is easier than attempting to pull through from the cabin. Joining the old to the new was easy enough using air fittings with M/Fmale theads and a Male /Male joiner. Because the tunnel is so cramped, a hose clamp would get caught so wire twisted tight around the fitting in each end and hammered over so it cannot catch on anything did the trick. The can of silicon spray was essential as there is nearly a metre of hose to coax through against the 3 others occupying the tunnel, as well as years of dust and dirt build up. This was probably the most challenging part, in getting the nozzle aimed into the small aperture to get the spray in the right place. Shuttling between cab and engine bay numerous times (once the connection was past the lip of the tunnel)l saw it emerge with the new hose in tow a bit dirty but still connected to the old hose.The second hose attached to the heater outlet I linked up to the 13MM hose using 2 different OD fittings. This time not only plenty of spray remaining on the surrounding hoses, but a smaller OD hose as well allowed it through with no fuss. Both were located in the tunnel ready to attach in 2hrs. Interestingly, the attaching fittings in the cab have reducing adaptors from 16mm/5/8"down to 13mm/ 1/2' and the attaching diameters on the motor end are 16mm. By using the 13mm hose, I will need two 13>16mm sleeves which I will make up in the next day or so and the motor and cab connections will fit as normal. Once completed I will upload pics of the finished hoses in situ ready for attachment to the motor. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Tempus Fugit! I have just posted a reply on a plating query and it occurred to me this thread has languished in its unfinished state since 15mnths ago!! A lot of water has flowed(flown) under the bridge and currently I am putting the motor back in for the 2nd time since October '15. I had it running however the RH bank was at best running on 3-4 cyls...prior to that it was only running on the LH bank and that was only discernible from the fact the RH precat was running 38deg C and the LH was 120deg C!!! I will continue on the before/after theme( now that I am resubscribed) although it will be a bit of an expose' of the challenges of extending a major service into a cosmetic resto on the rear drive-train clip. A few snippets her and there have surfaced from time to time in reply to queries. My only defense to the long drawn-out engine-out-in-out:- 2 weeks after pulling the motor my better half decides she wants to live in the foothills. Throw into the equation our existing place needed serious work to lease it out... and the new place did not have a garage! it has a workshop but the original garage was bricked-up and a lovely window put in where the rola-door should be. I had to leave the TR at the old place, engine in my old workshop until I cut the wall out and installed a rola-door, got the TR delivered and humped the motor to the new joint! An older house needs a lot of care as well and that accounted for countless weekends being filled with a myriad of adverbs such as-sorting,fixing,removing,propping,sealing,replacing until all my 'ings' were sore! So, I will be continuing the thread in a day or so after I collect the chronological image base together! Bear with me Pete Perth.WA
In post #23 you describe covering your oil hoses with the ss braiding, any chance you might have snapped a few pics of this process? Thanks for taking the time to post your progress very informative. Jeff
Jeff, I replaced the overbraided line with the correct(not original) sized line which is braided in manufacturing. The sizes I was attempting to match off the original were either too bigger O.D. with the correct(close) I.D or vice versa. The sizes you need to chase you will find in the AN sizing range(Army/Navy) I will hunt around and get the sizes for you, unfortunately I did not get any pics of the process as it requires one to grow an extra set of arms seemingly to to make them fit together. ProFlow is a racer supplier in the states that carries the line I used(a lot more expensive here) the procedure is in the back of the catalogue. A few points though regarding the TR oil line replacement:- * if it is cut too long for assembly it can hamper the motor assembly from fitting to the firewall location flanges. * the old line is so gunked up under the braid that it taints the plating on the connectors, I tried that and it looked awful. * when assembling the fittings to the new hose, the 'cuff'or female which goes over the braid has a LH spiral internally to grip and hold the OD of the hose. The male has the fine RH thread which goes into the cuff and seals on the hose internally as it is an interference fit, hence the fine thread giving an indication of the force required to fit it together. The plating on the cuff can be damaged in the process of assembly if not protected !! * the large dia hose from the oil tank>dry sump needs a bit of coaxing to start the male in the cuff. Relieve the wall thickness internally to allow the male thread to start in the cuff(there is plenty of thread to seal it sufficiently) * the AN sizing looks as though there is no way on earth these will fit together....but they do! * once dis-assembled, measure the length of the old hoses by putting them in a pipe or broom handle to straighten them out cut the new hose 10mm longer overall. *remove the male/male adaptors off the dry sump inlet and oil filter assembly and clamp them in a vice by the flats..connect outlet end of the fitting to that and it is held secure to screw the hose/cuff onto it, silicon is helpful. If you are going to replace yr hoses, it is well worth the effort, take yr time and they look great.
Hi Folks, I thought I may as well continue from where I left off; which was the braided hoses. You can see the state of them on the engine out, although they showed no sign of leakage, they would not look the part going back in that way. They were plated, along with all the other stuff and I was assured they would be no problem. Wrong! the crud under the braiding reacted with the plating chemicals and left it looking very average. Deciding to replace the hose and get the fittings re-plated at least got the fittings looking good, although finding hose the correct application and ID&OD was a big challenge(looking for Metric dims.) I found and modified some hose and put over-braid on it...much better but still a compromise. Months later came across some braided high pressure hose made in USA that used the AN sizing and got some samples closest to the required Metric ... that made all the difference and the end result speaks for itself! A bugbear was the lower inlet hose to the cooler; steel nut on Alum thread was so tight I had to apply serious heat onto the nut without allowing the alum to expand, I did get it off and finally had all of the fittings plated. I had the same issue with the cooler thermo switch but did not get that off. I have been collating all of the pics from 3 hard drives and sorting the old and new in the same categories to stick with the theme of Before and After. I now can post a new topic weekly on another stage of the refurb that took place. The car is driveable, goes well and happy so see most of the quirks that be-deviled it in the past no longer appearing, but one...and working on the possessed headlight motors currently. Cheers, and yes this must have been the longest major in history, but what an adventure! Pete K Perth WA Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Pete, I am just getting caught up on reading posts due to travel over the past couple of weeks. Just wanted to say thank you for sharing. I enjoyed reading your thread from start to finish and I learned a few things, especially the fittings. Your comments clicked in my head that I better keep my old oven and place it in my workshop incase I need to bake small freshly painted items...what a great idea. isaydingdong/neuman ......what is the purpose of your comments? your comments have nothing to do with what the project the thread originator has embarked on and seem to be more self served for whatever your focus/reasons are. I am not an expert in ferrari mechanics like you two are (or profess to be), I am a simpleton...but I enjoy cars and like to learn. So please allow this simpleton, and other simpletons like myself, to enjoy reading and learning. And rest assured that if you two ever do write something of value, I will definitely read it and compliment you on your respective contribution(s). Thanks you.
