Bleeding brakes on a 95 355....

Very easy to bleed/flush. No computer required. Just use standard technique.

vty,

--Dennis

 

Isnt it rear left caliper, then rear right, front left then front right? So you start with the furthest away from the fluid reservoir. Using the out side bleed nipples first then the inside on all calipers. Although on a personal note i always use two bleed tubes together at the same time on both nipples on the same caliper.
NOTE: the above is for a RHD car so may i assume the LHD car will be rear right caliper, rear left, front right and finaly front left.Is this agreed?

 

Yes, dual valves on all. I also have 930 calipers on my 911 with dual valves and don't pay much attention to which one I do first. I probably do the outside first simply because its closer to me, but I am not sure it matters much. As long as you get the sequence right of the calipers, I think you should be OK.

 

I seemed to recall that the ABS system throw's a wrench into bleeding the brakes on a 355?? There was some mention that it may be a best practice to turn the key in the ignition to position 1 or 2 which runs the ABS pump, then start the bleed process.

 

Well, if you want to get technical, then you should have an SD2/SD3 to open the ABS valves and get those last few drops of fluid from behind them as well....

 

With ABS cars always key-on

You don't need sd2 but it gives techs more info that they don't know how to use anyway

open bleeders more and more fluid will come out the front

I have cheezy 348 brakes not challenge with dual bleed calipers. IMO you only have to bleed the outside. I never get fade. I wheel to wheel race only. Use both bleeders when you have a dry caliper like when you rebuild your caliper or drop your motor subassembly. One bleeders gets all the air out fine if you are judt doing track bleeds. Also, it is a pain to track bleed by taking wheels off to get to the inside bleeder.

As an FYI Speedbleeders do not bleed as well as manual two man bleeds IMO. In fact nothing works better than the two man bleed. I have tried every system and none deliver better results. On the track nothing works any better for me than Valvoline synthetic 6 bucks a quart.

Finally, Bleed and bleed often for me at the end of every track day.

 

Thanks for the tip. I don't have to worry about this step with the 911 and would have overlooked it on the 355. I still need to bleed them from when I cooked them on the track running CW. They are OK on the street, but I would not want to push them very aggressively until I put some new fluid in. I'll be switching to Motul when I get around to it. How much fluid does it take?

 

sorry , but why with ABS equipped cars , the ignition key must be 'ON'
when bleeding ?

I remember when I bled my Fiat Coupe (brembo's dual-nipples fronts) , the
rear calipers did not really 'bleed' much fluid with each press of the pedal.
I had no key in the ignition at all.

 

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/howtobleedbrakesright.htm


the relevant portion :-

"How-To :-

So, now that you understand the need behind
bleeding your brakes, let us present just one
procedure that can be utilized when servicing
your own car. Note that unless you are replacing
your master cylinder, the procedure is the same
whether you have a vehicle equipped with ABS or not…"


As I understand it (from reading and actually doing it on the car) , whether
your car is ABS or not , does not matter as long as you're not doing a
dry-bleed ( ie , you allow the entire system to go dry and then try to
fill it with fluid). Almost all bleeding that I have heard of is definitely not
dry-bleed , but just a flushing with new fluid being slowly added , and
the old fluid in the system being bled/pumped out.

thats my take on this issue.

cheers.

 

i usually like to know why , so :-

http://www.stoptech.com/whitepapers/bleeding_abs_122701.htm

 

Interestingly, i know that if you try to bleed the brakes on a 360 with the ignition on it has a mental breakdown and thinks the system has a fluid leak and goes into some sort of limp mode that requires an ecu reset!

 

omg !

 

But that still does not explain why the ignition needs to be on. Only confirms that to be thorough, you need the SD2 or SD3 to open the ABS valves to get that last 10% of fluid behind them.

 

you're right.

just because the ign is on , does not make the ABS unit do anything. Like
the article mentioned , getting the ABS to work on the road is the only
practical solution for someone without the diag unit.