Bleeding brakes with ABS

#1 .. correct ..buy would advise using old method (pumping) since you will push master cylinder piston further than it was ever and if there is any imperfections in cylinder at end it may ruin piston . You can use a motive Power bleeder and achieve the same result without taking a change of damaging master cylinder...

#2 - I don't believe that is correct ..never heard of abs unit being open and beside there is a pump in there as well that would not be running ..so even though I am not sure about your statement I don't think it will achieve what you are looking for


Unless you need every single last drop of fluid out or have a persistent air issue ...using a motive power bleeder and opening the bleed screws at each of the calipers (right sequence depends on cars) and then activating abs on sandy or slippery road will get 99.99 percent perfect bleed ..with the exception of models like the old bentleys etc with more involved systems / procedures

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It depends on what car/system you have. The 328/348/355 with the Teves ABS requires a specific procedure.
On other cars if you are just flushing the old fluid out with new fluid, a pressure bleeder works fine. If you have replaced a brake hydraulic component and have introduced air in to the system, you need to use a diagnostic tool to cycle the ABS system in order to bleed all of the air from the system.

 

What is the specific procedure for the Teves ABS?

 

With my Japanese hotrods (Supras) that have much better wiring diagrams than Ferrari, I've located the power inputs to the ABS pump and have "hot wired" it to run and flush the old fluid out of this system. Because the ABS rarely gets activated in normal driving, this old fluid is typically really nasty and needs to be flushed out.

I don't know if this procedure works for the ABS system on our Ferrari's but it might be worth a try if you don't have access to the right diagnostic tool to activate the ABS pump.

 

Put a pressure bleeder on it. Bleed a 1/4 liter from each caliper, and be done with it. You will at that point have bled they system pretty much clean.

 

Said the same thing on post 2 .. at least we think alike

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Flash32 is right. Suck a bunch through each corner and be done.
Then at some point activate the ABS on gravel or leaves and the fluids from the ABS module will mix with the new fluid and it will be good enough.

I’ve sucked a ton of air accidentally into my 328 system using a Mity Vac without enough fluid in the resovoir. No big deal. Just suck a bunch more fluid through the system and you’re good. No need for any fancy tool.

I’ve used this procedure on Dino, 308, 328, 355, 360 CS with zero issues.

 

Hi to all. Lots of great comments which tally with my understanding. I've got no brake problems at all on a 360 but would like to cycle the abs and asr with a scan tool. Has anybody found a low end tool that would do the job. Ie not leonardo or sd2.

 

Interested in this as well. A lot of people here seem to be using the Launch scan tool. Would be great to hear from someone that has one if they are able to cycle the ABS with it.


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I can say 100 percent because although I purchased the ap200 i haven't used it yet ... Besides I have a Scud which computers seem to speak better to obd tools than earlier 360

Based on the documentation it does say it bleeds abs as one of the functions ..at 60 70 dollars I would look into this and maybe call tech .. I know there is a coverage list somewhere but can't seem to find it this minute

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I just went to autel site and check a Hyundai and it specifically states it bleeds brakes but when I select Ferrari 360 it only has data stream functionality ..... So not looking good ..sorry

The other lower cost item is the thinkdiag for about 120 ..again please do your research since I don't have in my possession

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this is the procedure someone kindly wrote up for the 328 ABS model, it works brilliantly.

Remove wheels
Fill brake fluid reservoir
Turn key on (level should drop)
Top off reservoir again, almost to the top and leave the key on
Have a helper sit in the car
Open the bleed screw on the right rear caliper
Have helper slowly press the brake pedal, after the pedal drops a couple of inches the pump will start to run and fluid will come out. Helper should hold the pedal at that level so pump will continue to run.
After approximately ¾ of pint has come out, close the bleed screw.
Top off reservoir again
Now repeat the procedure at the left rear caliper
After both rear calipers have been bled turn the key off and fill the reservoir to the full mark (seam on tank)

Now bleed the front brakes manually
Starting at the right front caliper
Helper should pump the pedal three times then hold it down
Open the bleed screw until the pedal reaches the bottom, then close the bleed screw (repeat this process 10 times on each front caliper)

**While bleeding the front calipers watch level of fluid it may overflow before it starts to go down (because accumulator may release stored fluid) also don’t let level get too low there are three chambers in the reservoir and its hard to watch them all. If the front chamber gets too low you will get air in the system.

After all four calipers are bled turn the key on when the pump motor stops running turn key off
Pump the brake pedal 50 times to depressurize the accumulator, watch the fluid level so it doesn’t overflow (use a turkey baster or syringe to suck some out if its going to overflow)
After the accumulator is depressurized the fluid level should be at the top of the reservoir (bottom of the filler neck)
Turn key on again after pump stops running the fluid level should now be at the max mark (the seam in the reservoir)

 

Get a mity vac and bleed all four calipers. Go for a drive and find some leaves or gravel that can trigger the ABS system when applying brakes. New fluid mixes with small amount of fluid left in the ABS system.
You’re done, go drink a beer.

 

Some people erroneously conflate "bleed" with "flush"...The ABS system will trap some old fluid. Flushing twice the capacity of the system will evacuate all the old fluid in the lines, master cylinder, and calipers. But the ABS needs to be done separately.

It's a good idea to flush it periodically since brake fluid is hygroscopic (not hydroscopic) meaning it absorbs water. That's why you never use an open container of brake fluid. Water vapor trapped in the open container goes into solution with the brake fluid and since water has a lower boiling point than brake fluid it forms bubbles that are compressible, giving a spongy pedal and eventual complete brake fade.

I'm doing the same thing.

 

That works only for the Teves ABS system on the 328, Mondial, 348 and some early versions of 355. For Bosch ABS system which comes with some later versions of 355, 360 and anything after 1998 or so, that procedure does not work to flush the ABS.

 

For those of you that really want to flush the ABS system and do not have the expensive scan tools, flush the rest of the system, close it up, take the car out and lock up the brakes a few times where the ABS kicks in, and then go back and flush it again.

Tedious, but way more fun.

 

That is somewhat what I do .. I go to a parking lot that has alot of leaves on ground ..makes it easy for tires to slip when braking ..but I do that after my flush but dont bother to do again since the amount exchanged from abs to the rest of the system should be small

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