Bleeding clutch | FerrariChat

Bleeding clutch

Discussion in 'Mondial' started by hnichols, Dec 7, 2023.

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  1. hnichols

    hnichols Karting

    Apr 15, 2020
    209
    Chicago IL
    Full Name:
    Hugh Nicholson
    I'm putting the car ('87) away for the winter, which includes renewing the hydraulic fluid -- four wheels plus the clutch slave cylinder. I've done this dozens of times, but only the second time with the Ferrari. I use a power bleeder -- pump up to 10psi, crack the bleed screws, and collect the fluid in a bottle. Easy, if a bit tedious. Anyway, after I was done I found the clutch pedal goes to the floor and doesn't spring back. I'm assuming I let the fluid level in the reservoir drop too far -- the reservoir appears to have two compartments separated by some sort of baffle; the level drops in the compartment closest to the firewall before the compartment in front. If that's so, there's very little leeway in the amount of fluid you can push out before topping off the reservoir.

    Two questions: (1) I can get my clutch pressure back simply by bleeding the clutch slave again? The brake pedal feels stiff (although not boosted), so I assume the threshold is higher for the brakes. Or do I need to do all the brake calipers again as well? And (2) since I'm assuming it has air in the system that wasn't there before, is it still enough to pressure the system and loosen the bleeder screw on the slave cylinder, or do I have to manipulate the pedal when I'm bleeding?

    Many thanks!
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,736
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, Dec 8, 2023
    Last edited: Dec 8, 2023
    Maybe using the word "higher" here for the brakes is a little bit backwards ;). The outlet from the reservoir going to the clutch is higher up on the side of the reservoir, while the brakes get their fluid from the bottom of the reservoir = brakes don't fail if the hose going to clutch master cylinder leaks, or if the clutch master cylinder leaks, or if the clutch slave cylinder leaks, etc.. Picture here showing the clutch outlet nipple on the side of the reservoir:

    https://www.ferrariparts.co.uk/diagram/ferrari/32-mondial---cabriolet/035-brake-hydraulic-system-(for-car-without-antiskid-system)

    If (after resolving the clutch issue) the brake pedal feels normal/solid, I wouldn't redo that -- JMO.

    No harm using the clutch pedal -- i.e., open the bleed screw, push the clutch pedal to the floor (I think it will stay there), close bleed screw, raise the clutch pedal by hand (which will draw fluid from the reservoir into the clutch master cylinder), rinse-and-repeat...
     
  3. hnichols

    hnichols Karting

    Apr 15, 2020
    209
    Chicago IL
    Full Name:
    Hugh Nicholson
    Thank you, Steve, that was really helpful. Followed your procedure and we're back and business.

    Yes, the outlet from the reservoir to the clutch is quite high up, pretty darn close to the min mark. Not much margin of error for a brake flush -- lesson learned :)
     
  4. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,736
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Very good -- we like happy endings!
     
    ronfrohock likes this.
  5. moysiuan

    moysiuan F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Nov 1, 2005
    4,180
    Canada
    If one does the pressure bleed, what is the preferred sequence, would the clutch be the first to bleed, then what order of the wheels? Or the other way around?
     
  6. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,736
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Don't think that it matters whether clutch or brakes first. Ferrari recommends fronts first, then the rears for the brakes -- see page G6 in the Mondial6/QV WSM 281/83.
     

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