Bleeding F1 Help

Which part of the bleeding process are you having trouble with?

 

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Considering a true bleed will some work to get the actuator off to loosing screws .. i would suggest spending some time on diagnosis

Here a few things to check and report back on

Have you done a health scan ..any codes come up
How many seconds dors pump prime when you open door in morning
When key on engine off how many shifts can you do before pump comes in again
Is the problem you having after a hot long drive or stone cold

Describe how much time passed after you shift into first that it slips into neutral

Have you look at live data stteam on launch .. leakage rates , pis, wear numbers ..maybe insert a few screenshots of the tcu live data for us to help

Have you mapped live data of pressure while driving to see if pressure is dropping too much


This is a start


Btw what makes you think fluid is too low .. you should drive the car to get warm.. shut car off , close doors. .. get access to f1 tank .. open doors to prime (should hear sounds) immediately open tank and stick finger in till you hit bottom .. if your finger nail is wet you are good .. about 2mm from bottom of tank

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Where did you get this 2 mm from, very low compared to the 18 mm my dealers tells me to keep

 

The fluid should be check warm engine off and primed

And it should be only a finger nail deep

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How many shifts with engine off do you get before hearing pump

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Mike you are correct ..i have a typo 2cm ..fingernail length

About 20mm.which 18 is spot on ..thanks for the catch

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If we want to go by the manual cold pump primed is 5mm from disk .. which is about a half fingernail



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You can bleed the clutch easily and a good way to flush the fluid which should be done every 2 years or so . but your symptoms don't seem to air in clutch line

Give it a shot and see if it improves...pretty easy ..but easier if you have someone watching tank level

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With engine off key on how long between pumps
Also tells us more about when the issue occurs ..stone cold ,very hot, how long before it shifts to neutral ..

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I was trying to gauge pump cycle times ..engine off key on vs engine on .. engine off key on cycle time should be longer over 2-3 mins ..engine on just over 1 and half minutes

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Let us know engine off key on cycle times

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Yes i was thinking that, if you put the brakes on at 2 mm you have air in system.

 

U tube search- f1 bleeding, also e diff bleeding. Lots of info

 

Rattarosa shows how to bleed the 360 clutch and F1 system in his latest video including some of the process using the Launch 431.

 

My F430 had shifting issues years ago also that were resolved with a F1 bleed/flush and then a re-learn. My car was not shifting occasionally from 1st to second or second to 3rd. It was random but on alsmot every drive session, it would occur one or twice. I was bummed too say the least. My mechanic suspected air in system or it was the cheapest to rule out. Glad it worked for me. There was no way I could have done it diy. Need the SD3 computer or equivalent to do the re-learn where the car goes through all the gears. My advice if if you don't know what you are doing just bring it to a dealer or your indie mechanic and ask them to flush and bleed your F1 fluid then do a re-learn. Good luck!

 

There are TWO bleed nipples for the F1 system;


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Where are both those bleed nipples?


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The bleed point labeled 2 is on top of the engine, near the F1 pump, under the shroud. It should be bled first. The one labeled 1 is under the car near where the clutch is. It should be bled second. For a complete bleeding service, the actuator should be bled. It will have to be removed to access the bleeding screws behind it. It's bled last.

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