Bleeding Testarossa Clutch

The clutch shares with the brake master cylinder reservoir. When bleeding the clutch, make sure you keep the fluid full, as the clutch will run dry if it drops below 3/4. This protects the brake system in the event of a loss of fluid in the clutch.
Fill the reservoir and open the bleeder, push the petal fully down and close the bleeder before releasing the petal. Try pressing the petal and if it does not come off the floor on its own, repeat the above process. Once it starts to return the petal, you can pump it vigorously and then hold it down and open the bleeder, close the bleeder and release the petal. Repeat until the petal is firm and clutch actuation is normal.
If it was completely dry, you may find that the next day the first push of the petal is soft. Tiny air bubbles may still be in the fluid when you finish bleeding and sitting over night lets the tiny bubble come together and become one larger bubble. If the petal is soft on the first push, just bleed it again until you see the bubble pass and that will take care of the issue.

Then go drive the hell out of it.

 

+1 above

 

On TRs and 355/348 we often do a reverse bleed to start the system fill, pump clean fluid back through the bleed screw having sucked out the reservoior. Then have someone help with a regular pump/open/close/pump/open/etc.. until the fluid runs clear. Or the newe style pressure bleeders work very well, I have a long hose to my drain bottle and have thart located higher than the bellhousing.

 

I had good results using a pressure bleeder on the 348. Not only does it make it a one person operation, but the constant flow of fluid (vs. the stop-start flow of the pedal pump and bleed method) continually pushes any air bubbles through the line. The stopping and starting of other methods can allow air bubbles to back flow to higher points during times of no fluid movement.