The heck do you do it? After replacing the seal and having the cylinder sleeved, I've been bleeding like crazy to no result. Any hints, do you have to pump it the two-person way? I've been using a Mighty-Vac and I'm getting no resistance at the pedal and no movement of the clutch arm. I'm pretty sure I haven't dropped the fluid level low enough in the reservoir to suck air in at the master cylinder. I bench filled the cylinder prior to installation. Tonight I took the bleed screw out to look in and see if I had spilled enough while installing it that it was empty, but it was completely filled. (I plugged it while installing, but the plug fell out) Any words of wisdom? Also, is there a way to remove the fluid level sensor from the clutch (rear) side of the brake fluid reservoir? The half under that is filled with black gunk at the bottom, and I'd really like to clean it out. Most of the fluid I initially flushed out of the slave cylinder was really dirty, but it has cleared up again. It looks as if the sensor presses or twists in, but I'd hate to break it doing something I could avoid. Thanks in advance. Peter
I had good luck with the 2 person method. Wrap rag around slave cyl to catch dripping fluid and towel on rear deck so can lay across deck and reach from above. Loosen bleed screw and put finger over. Have teenager push down and let air out put finger over as they let up--- repeat a few times checking to see that don't run reservoir dry--about a 15 min job.
Good post, I am having the exact same problem. I can say though that on my mondial it is easier to get to the bleed screw through the access panel behind the rear seats. Hopefully we will get it worked out!
A finger? How's that going to keep air from creeping back into the slave inbetween pumps? I'm about to do my clutch slave and was planning to use the vinyl-hose-into-a-plastic-bottle method of bleeding I've used on 1,001 brake jobs. I'll put a thread together with pictures for you fellers... hopefully all goes to plan
It's old school but the finger method works great to prime a master cylinder. Basically your finger becomes a one-way check valve. You could open and close the bleed screw between pedal pumps but that takes a lot of time when you are just trying to get the system started. I also use my finger to prime plastic spray bottles that wont spray. Works every time. dave
You must be shure that the piston inside the master is nt stuck inside. When pumping the pedal let some space under the pedal otherwise the piston can get stuck and will not come back in his normal position because there is no presure in the oil line. If so, you must find a method to get it back in position......putting presure on the slave cilinder when all is closed. Guido
Having the teen pull the pedal back on first couple usually works on the no back pressure. As mentioned above the finger acts as check valve and can also approximate when getting good pressure because it will force fluid out even when trying to hold down--then you are done. On my 8 Coupe is easy reach to the top of the slave left handed over the back and don't have the behind the seat access panel.
An update here: What hours of trying with the Mighty Vac couldn't do worked in about 15-minutes when I got my neighbor to pump the pedal while I opened and closed the bleeder. It's a 7mm size, which limits the number of tools available--I had to get under the car and reach up to access the bleeder with a small wrench. The engine cover on the cabriolet is shorter than that of the coupe so I couldn't reach over the engine, and I couldn't get my hand through the access panel and into the right position, either. Whatever the case, doing it with two people worked just fine. I spent some time on the internet searching around and it seems that Mighty Vacs may not work so well for clutches, although I don't know why. I may still get a Power Bleeder, but my neighbor was less expensive and no shipping time was involved. Cheers!
I tried pressure bleeding and suction pump (MityVac) bleeding after the level in the clutch reservoir ran dry. Finally, I attached my small Vacuum Pump used for evacuating A/C systems to the bleed nipple on the clutch cylinder. The pump inlet was connected through the A/C gauges and then to clear plastic tubing in order to be able to observe and regulate the suction. It pulled out the air out and caused the fluid to start flowing in the tubing. At that point I shut off the vacuum and closed the bleeder. This technique is also good for removing all traces of old brake fluid prior to refilling.
Yep, I grabbed my neighbor and did it the old fashiod two person way with a clear plastic hose and a 7mm wrench. It was up and working quickly.
I struggled with the two person wrench method until I used my gizmo (a tube connected to a one-way ball bearing valve that sits in a bottle of fluid) .. took 5 mins.
I used a hand pump, worked like a charm once you understand how the darn thing works. Goes into the bleed valve pump action and tighten and repeat. Its the same result as having a mate help you pump the pedal while you untighten/tighten the valve until the air is out. It was still a pain but worked for me. Cheers Image Unavailable, Please Login
I did mine the same way I do my brakes. Loosen the valve with a wrench (you'll need a spanner if you live in the UK), then finger-tighten. Open the resevoir. As your wife mashes the pedal (depresses the pedal to the firewall if you're from anywhere but the South), open the valve and when the pedal is on the floor, close the valve, finger tight. Have her pull the pedal back out. Then have her mash the pedal again to the firewall and you open the valve as she's mashing it. Once it's on the floorboard, close the valve again finger tight. Repeat 'til juice is shooting out everywhere (it's best to use a piece of aquarium hose on the valve and have it run down int a gallon milk jug). Keep an eye on the resevoir level, too. I have a "Mighty-Vac" but can't seem to make it work.
