It is not clear from the WSM as to if the bleeding is done with the motor running or at rest. Can anyone clarify thi? Would someone please clarify the bleeding process? The WSM say to warm up the car and then bleed . . .is this with the motor running or stopped? Should I expect a lot of air or just some bubbles? I just don't want to get burnt with coolant spray! The reason I suspect a 'bubble' is that in any 'normal' operating parameter (under 70 f) the car runs @ 165. If I use a little more power it immediately goes to 195. Lighten up on the right foot and the temps come right down again. It never seems to operate in the middle of the stat (new) just at both ends. IF the OAT is over 80 it gets warmer even if I use very little power. Thanks
Get it warm. stop motor, crack bleed screw, let air escape until only coolant comes out. You may have an air bubble in the rear of the left head, Jack up front as high as possible, fill with coolant, let sit that way over night with the cap off. top up the next day. According to Dave Helms that's the only way to get the air bubble out of the left head.
According to Dave, yes. He told me they always follow the procedure I described, he said it will usually take over a gallon the next morning.
Cliff- My techs use a vacuum system for filling with coolant, so no air bubbles. Pulls air out and the coolant fills right after it. Fills every nook and cranny. Like this one: http://www.bmpdesign.com/product-exec/product_id/7350/category_id/16/search_year/2010/search_model/203 Taz Terry Phillips
I have one of those, when I do the hoses and gold connectors I'll try it and we'll see if it completely fills a 550 system. I tend to give a lot of credence to what Dave Helm says. He's been around the block a few times.
