I was wondering were can I purchase a set BMC Air Filters for my 550?
Bought mine at http://www.pelicanparts.com . They are about $ 200 a pair. On my 550, didn't notice any real change over stock filters ...... in sound or performance.
I'm amazed at that comment. For me, the difference is remarkable. The most tangible difference of ANY quick fix mod you can do. Bang for buck, impossible to beat.
I'll never get tired of reminding owners that for ANY modification to become effective, you have to reset the ECU, possibly more than once. The reason is simple: the ECU calculates the amount of fuelling based on "learned" boundary conditions (i.e. intake suction pressure, exhaust backpressure). If the suction pressure (i.e. intake flow resistance) is suddenly reduced by 60% (as it happens with BMC filters) and the backpressure is also reduced by using centre straight pipes and/or Tubis, then the engine is capable of gulping in a LOT more air on one side, and is also capable of expelling exhaust gases using much less energy in the process. However, the ECU "refuses" to learn this, and will keep on supplying a fuelling close to the original quantity, which is sufficient to reach "only" 485 HP. If you reset the ECU and then re-start the engine leaving it to idle for 5-10 minutes, the new boundary conditions will be learned, and the ECU will supply fuel accordingly to the new flow resistance - ergo, a LOT more fuel at full load. Expect +30 HP at high rpm with BMC+centre pipes replacement (there is no improvement at low rpm, where higher backpressure actually helps, which is why the 550 has got flap valves in the exhaust that open at 4000 rpm... it's all calibrated to optimise the pressure waves in the exhaust). I don't know how much you'll gain with air filters alone (Ferrarifixer and Stephens - any idea?)
Im with ferrarifixer on this one. The 550 intake system seems like the weak link to the car, any improvments you can make to them im sure will give you great results. It looks as if they took the 95 f355 intake system and modified it to fit the 550 to me.
Hi Jsuit - the spec of your car is awesome, you should be able to gain at least 45 HP with your mods. To reset the ECU: open the bonnet, and on the right side, on the fender and near the coolant expansion tank, you will find a round plastic knob. Simply turn it and - click - the whole car shuts down, alarm included. You have just disconnected the battery. Wait a few minutes, then turn the knob back the other way again. The alarm should go "beep" briefly. Turn the engine on and LET IT IDLE WITHOUT TOUCHING THE THROTTLE for at least 5 minutes (maybe even 10 minutes, wait until the oil has warmed up). Drive on and feel the difference. It worked on my car after 2 attempts, but Stephens told me once that you may need to re-set it more than twice before the ECU really picks up the new boundary conditions. Good luck! By the way - I TOTALLY agree with Ferrarifixer. The stock 550 is a "strangled" car from both intake and exhaust side, 485 HP is way below this engine's capability. The problem is, back in '96 Ferrari already had a plan - which involved various stages of development: the 575 with 515 HP, the 612 with 543 HP and the "top car" - the Enzo - to have in excess of 650 HP. If they had released the 550 with 530 HP they would have seriously undermined further development potential, and the Enzo would have had to go beyond 700 HP to justify its price and exclusivity. Unfortunately the 550 was deliberately castrated to pursue this long-term strategy. Fortunately for us, we can do a lot to bring this car to the level it deserves - a true M5 killer
Funny you should ask. I am in the process of scanning a bunch of dyno sheets, charting power gains and losses with different modifications. The 550 ECU does not reset by turning off the battery, according to the workshop manual at least. I have also learned that the workshop manual is not always right though! The procedure to reset the ECU can only be done via SD2. The ECU doesn't need reseting to "learn" the new maps, just full power runs, which are easiest done on a dyno or the race track. It usually takes about three runs, turning ignition off between runs, for the ECU to complete the learning process. To answer your question my car had a 25hp power gain from BMC filters only. Potentially around 5 hp could be attributed to inaccuracies between the runs, but it is still the cheapest HP you will ever get.
Yes. The problem is to fix it properly, you need new, larger throttle bodies MAF etc etc. It isn't just the filters which are a restriction. Even on the 575 which has a substantially larger intake system, power for the SA was re-rated to 530hp by "intake optimisation" only, according to Ferrari.
Amazing, not thay the car need any additional power. But the difference it very noticable. Took two tries. John
Dear Stephens, In my workshop manual under Electrical - Battery it does mention that if the battery has been disconnected then the ECU needs to be reset and so advises the 10 minute idle method with aircon off. From my computer knowledge, I would expect the computer reloads the factory default parameters from permanent memory and then starts to relearn the current situation. The real question is how can one speed up the learning process? Your advise of 3 runs on the track makes a lot of sense. The ECU is probably programmed to relearn only when changes bigger than a certain size occur away from the default settings. the question is how big a change can it accomodate, there will obviously be some limits programmed in on the max. changes allowed. I never could work out how reset and 10 minutes idle would help it learn the full power curve and fuel map settings, I think the manual is just explaining how to reset the default settings. What do you think? Ron PS when can you help show us how to modify the throttle body and MAF?
I did some current drain tests today... When you lock the car using the remote, it draws about 0.97 amps for a few second (interior lamp delay) then about 0.30 amps for about 3 to 4 min, then the draw drops to 0.12 Amps (alarm led flashing, radio memory etc?) after about 4 minutes. (This car has aftermarket stereo unit with Ipod connections etc etc, and a radar detctor too but I don't think this affects current draw) I wonder if this is 0.30 amps to 0.12 drop is the ECUs powering down....?
Parts will need replacement to show meaningfull improvements. I am removing MAF altogether, having larger throttle bodioes made and running aftermarket Motec race ECU using throttle position sensor, MAP and RPM.
Well, I tried this method, and after the 10 minute idle period...my slow down light was flashing!! Truly, the one thing I hate about the 550 is the myriad of check engine and slow down lights.....they are starting to drive me crazy. Ive had the check engine lights a few times, but this is the first for the slow down. I tried to start it up again the next day...it was flashing immediately..while the car was still bone cold. Oh well,..back to the dealer yet again!
