Bora - shift linkage conical pin removal?

I did it on mine @ about the 10 year old mark and still low mileage.

Those pins were available at the time from Dorman so I did have to replace a few. I tried making an extraction tool but I had no luck. Perhaps you'll do better than I did though.

I got different nuts with a flat face and just as you're suggesting I backed them off enough so that the pin would move when slammed with a hammer & drift. Too much slack and you risk bending over the end of the pin. I put the load on nut face but with as much of the nut covering the threads as possible.

I made a couple of oak jigs bracing against the rest of the car where I could to support the back side of the linkage to prevent the force from damage anything else in the linkage.

That plus nut remover juice did the trick.

I used antisieze on them when reassembling.

A few other things to consider with the linkage (there's an MIE article I did about this)

Get some new silicone rubber boots for the joints, yes they are available from bearing supply houses. Those OEM originals are pure crap and a waste of time.

Once it's all apart check the condition of the needle bearings in the support guides that mount on the engine block. Check the same on those inside the cabin.

The ones on the block need to be lubricated and protected from the heat of the exhaust. The OEM shield is inadequate and completely covered in asbestos so watch yourself. I put the hose on mine let the water dissolve the mess. I made a completely new SS shield with modern insulating material but there's even better stuff today.

To protect the bearing I put seals on the outboard end of each slide assembly and then a piece of straight silicone heater hose in between the two assemblies packed with high temp grease. You will need to put in a filtered vent mechanism because everything will expand with the heat.

When remounting the two slide supports to the side of the block you may need to shim the mounting points in order to obtain a proper shaft alignment of the two supports. Mine was out of alignment and caused binding which led to a poor shifting car.

If you do all of this it will shift like a dream, quite precisely but with a bit of a long throw. I've never had nay sort of shifting issues since then.

Getting the pins out the first time was a bit of a pain but once you have good pins that have a bit of antisieze on them then maintenance is is not a problem. I think I had to thread the ends of the Dorman taper pins myself?

 

Here's one. I didn't check dimensions, but at least the general need is recognized. McFarlane Part Number TOOL107 TOOL, Piper Taper Pin Removal

MIE has the correct part... at a price. My son just bought a taper pin for a Ferrari F40 project that cost 1/4 as much! Unfortunately it's a size too large for the Bora shift linkage.

 

Boiy, I wish I'd have had that all those years ago.

Here are some pins that might work Art. I don't remember the sizes LOL

AN386 TAPER PIN from Aircraft Spruce

 

Art, Nothing worse than botched previous repair attempts.

I constructed braces that removed any possibility of collateral damage and it sounds like you would be wise to do the same. If you ground off the mushroomed portion of the pin then you could push the pin out with a slightly undersized drift.

Patience.

What about in between the two brackets?

I did not put boots on that shaft as it has to slide. I put on seals.

If the shaft slides and rotates nicely , no binding, then you should be OK.