Can Boxer belts be changed with the engine in the car?
Right side, yes... Left side, no... For the time it will take you to do the right side in the car, you can have the motor out, have both belts changed....and have the engine back sitting in the chassis. Why strugle in exremely tight spaces when it's so easy to get the engine? Regards, David
I suppose it depends on which car...a 90s Vette is different than a 67 Chevelle. With a Boxer, after you get the rear bonnet off it don't take much longer than an hour to get the engine out.
OK, so the header nuts are near impossible to get to... And the inner CV bolts magically seem to tighten, even though they were torqued to specs... And all of the exhaust hardware is seized together, despite no Winters or wet driving condition... And that the hoses "just don't want to come off those nipples" without trauma or blood... Nevermind, I can't ever seem to remember how I grabbed the engine the last time I pulled her... But, other than that, it's pretty easy. You mileage may vary! David
Nick, The 365bb engine can realistically be removed in 4-5 hours....with the above noted "issues" taken into consideration. I usually figure on an extra hour or so, for installation. Regards, David
I have personally never removed a Boxer engine, although I have removed several American V8s and English 6s over the years... But an hour or so for a Boxer engine removal was what I was told by Ted Rutland ... he said the Boxer engine was the easiest to remove of all Ferrari's ...
This is what your left with when its out. a 365BB is a little easyer as the oil is contained in sump and theres no oil tank to contend with. Image Unavailable, Please Login
When a Sawzall is one of your primary tools, you can do most anything in an hour. Also Ted is never putting the engine back in.
You took the words out of my mouth... What's even more comical is that Ted and I spoke yesterday regarding the effort required to pull a BB engine...and I walked him through the various steps. I'll make a note to send him my Sawzall! Back to our regularly scheduled program..."Those who've had and those who have not..." Regards, David
Good day all, +1 with David here. Since I am less experienced than David, it took my approx 6-7 hours to remove my 512BB engine and roughly the same for installation... although the extra time was needed to add the occasional bandaid to the scuffed and marred knuckles ... Cheers, Sam
Very funny! You must have been trying to get those "how did they get those frikken' things in there in the first place" exhaust manifold nuts off...or back on! That act of contorsionism in itself is worth a few scraped knuckles! Regards, David
Indeed... I am certain that those original designers had a twisted sense of humor when they designed the whole setup...perhaps they had something against their service personnel... a vendetta perhaps . In my case, I "modified" some inexpensive wrenches, used 1/4" drive extensions/u-joints, and dislocated a few of my knuckles in order to get to them... What I really needed was thinner and 2 or 3 inch longer fingers just to get the exhaust nuts started. On the positive side, I invented some new and creative curse words ... Cheers, Sam
The exhast manifold nuts are worst part of the job...so with a little bit of "Yankee Ingenuity" we have: -1) Use a VW 12mm "across the flats" copper exhaust nut (with a little grease on said washers to hold them in place)-Smaller scoket, easier access! -2) Remove the inner wheel wells (Yes, after 10 years with the beast, I finally figured that they do actually come out)...and volia, more access to the nuts that you really can't reach, but can see, anyhow... And you're done with less bloodshed! Regards, David
Do ya use a Sawzall to get the wheel wells out? Seriously though, I'd like to take mine out to paint them. John
John, The front half, towards the fuel tanks is bolted in place with a few 6mm bolts. No Sawzall needed. If your referring to the rear parts of the wheel well (in the rear), you've got many rivets to drill out. The front well wells are bonded in...Re-surface them in place. Regards, David
Remove bell housing, rear clamshell, exhaust...and the ancillary stuff. Don't forgot to remove the uber-expensive distributor. We'll can do that without resorting to the Sawzall! Image Unavailable, Please Login
