Good day George, Jean-Paul has installed Birdman's blocks and so the fuses are different and are no longer the original "bullet" style like those depicted in the parts manual, etc. Cheers, Sam
jean-paul, wuerth has good fuses, never had problem until now. but yu have to be a garage/dealer and register at wuerth. otherwise you not get anything from them. so it is in germany, don´t know how it is in france?
I recently purchased Bosch relays for my 84 bbi from Daniel lighting. Below is the information. Daniel Stern Lighting 305-260 Raymur Ave Vancouver BC, V6A 3K8 866-861-8668 https://www.danielsternlighting.com/
Thanks, Eurospares in UK is well known but they sell the famous Torpedo, which btw are not ceramic as they claim. For AGC glass fuses, Jaguar spares vendors as Barratt or Limora are the best ones (even, as you outlined, you never know their sourcing? Jean-Paul
Thanks Romano, We have here Würth. Anyway, now buying from Germany mit « Deutsche Qualität » or France is the same, just one extra shipping day. Jean-Paul
Good day Jean-Paul, You are most welcome! Those fuse companies are global and so you should be able to get them where you are. Although there may be other European brands that are comparable. Bosch has a great reputation... but, you have to be careful, as some Bosch product divisions have licensed their "Bosch" name to other manufacturers and these products are not actually manufactured by Bosch and so the quality is not to the level that Bosch is known for. As I said earlier... the consumer has to be far more vigilant than ever these days! As for your E-type... very nice! Post a pic when you have a chance, as we all like to see these great cars no matter the marque! Cheers, Sam
Hi Sam, I PM you pics of the E-type... not to be excommunicated from Fchat community. #Romano, Agree, but when Bosch puts its logo on any stuff, I still suppose that they still manage the quality of their subcontractors manufacturing accordingly.
Good day Jean-Paul, I got the pics... what a stunning car! Also, I think we are a solid bunch that appreciate vintage auto, but also you have met the threshold of the community (boxer owner) and so no excommunication would result! As for Bosch's name licensing or manufacturing subcontractor... do not make any assumptions. Sadly, these days a lot/most companies are focused on $ and less concerned about quality. Historically companies were very pleased to have 10, 20, 30% ROI growth per year. Now it is in 1000's of % and for this level of ROI something has to give... and reducing quality is usually the first step. At one time spending more on something usually equated to a higher quality product, but not these days... buyer beware/caveat emptor ... Cheers, Sam
it is really a sad world meanwhile. even if you would pay good money mostly you will get minor quality goods. but this you see not at the first sight
Good day Romano, Indeed, it is sad and disappointing. That said, I am grateful that I grew up when I did, as it reflected a different time and attitude that seems to be lacking these days. However, I still operate my business in the "old school" ways... I may not have 1000's of % in year over year ROI, but at least I can hold my head high in the products/devices I do offer. Cheers, Sam
I´m retired since nearly 2 years but still work a little because I like to do so. but it makes no fun anymore with minor quality material. also I not need/want 1000´s of % ROI, if I have for living it is good for me. that is why I made about 45 years ago my hobby to my business. because once when we will leave here the last shirt has no pockets
Hi all! Fun factoid: It was my BBi fuse blocks (most importantly the middle one) that Birdman used as prototypes to extend his product line back in 2007. It was May of 2007 in fact -- nearly 16 years ago. Have not had an electrical issue since then.
Hello Sam! I read that you didn't have the correct materials to make the fuse blocks in January. Have you found replacement material? A friend and myself are looking for good replacement blocks for our 308 QVs. The features and durability of your blocks look great with the original covers fitting a bonus. Are you back in production?
Hello, I come back on this thread since I had to focus again on my 512BBi fuse block. Let's remember I changed for Birdman 308's glass tubular fuse blocks. Recently I had the left bank non functioning when engine ON, and finally identified that I had no 12V on LH FP fuse: the little jump bar was unsolded with small sparks around! I re-solded this bar and also did a Y shape double wiring in 4mm2 from red alimentation wire (4mm2) lug to each FP fuse (as I saw in another Fchat thread) to secure and limit the temperature on each FP fuse. Lugs crimped and stain solded. The temperature (measured with IR meter gun) is still high: up to 55°C on the lug upstream the AGC on each fuse, 40°C downstream. As a comparison, head lights or cooling fans, when ON, are at 35°C with these AGC fuses. Anyway better than former torpedos, but I still think that it is high temperature(NB: Amperage on each FP is 10A, rather normal/high side since the 2 FP Bosch are relatively new). Does any FChatter has measured these temperatures to give a point of comparison? Or any other improvement (of course, FP lugs cleaned and crimped firmly)? Thanks , Paul
Wow, very fortunate that you found the issue before any fires were started. Personally, I installed a Birdman fusebox and haven't had any issues. Eventually though, I installed a Motec PDM; which largely replaced the relays and fuse box. This allows me to have greater control over switching logic, monitor current, program retries, etc.. It also allows me to rewire physical switches that had full current running through them to be low current switches that "trigger" the PDM to send full current via higher amperage wire directly to the accessories (rather than passing through the switches). While I personally think this is the much better way to go, this is very expensive by comparison. Also, while reversible and hidden, it's also does not have a "stock" appearance when you remove the fuse box cover. For me, the pros vastly outweigh the cons and my car is not a concours car. Anecdotally, I haven't found the Ferrari wire to be the biggest issue. Not even the accessories themselves. Rather, it's the various exposed terminals that now have 40+ years of oxidation on them. All that said, I can pull up current draw on the laptop and see what channel in pulling what. If you like, I can look at the fuel pump data and report back. The caveat though is that I also converted to EFI and I'm using modern injectors. The fuel pumps are stock though.
Thanks Robert for your answer and comments. I have been looking to your car which is nearer of an LM than BBi now. Great, so you are one like Romano here who are experts in F boosting. About my car, it has been completely overhauled some 4 years ago, so harnesses are new, as the fuse block from Birdman I changed one year ago. Indeed I could have had a fire since the temp of the FP lugs were at 100°C when I discovered the bad/miss contact. As for the FP draw, 10A was reported to me as acceptable by S.Magnusson some month ago (better 8A but OK). Thanks for your proposals, but I am not as skilled as you are to change all relays, etc for a Motec PDM. I will just open the relays plate to check relays and plate backside condition. After the overhauling, opening the relay plates need to move the central console to access to! I don't think it is normal geometry and anyway not good for my back pain, at my age! I occurred sudden stalls some time ago and suspect the CIS module (hidden in the original Dinoplex casing) which has been changed during restoration (not by myself) because there is presently a 2 posts coil which doesn't cope with Marelli Dinoplex (3 posts) and the module is silent . Probably MSD inside? I consider to change for Permatune to come back to original 3 posts coil, MM looking, and reliable as new. The restoration is quite nice and enclose a pic of the engine bay (don't consider the copiglia clamps which I have plated dichromate in the meantime and wrong path of the rear waterhose). Cheers, Paul
That's a very clean engine bay! Good luck on tracking down the stall issues. CIS can be really tricky to diagnose. One thing I don't think people realize is just how nasty it can get in the mechanical advance. If any of those springs / posts gets crusty, it can really mess with timing – which then causes other funky issues that seem fuel related but are actually timing / spark related. This can be especially true if the car isn't regularly exercised across the full RPM range.
Thanks Robert, will have a look. But, FYI since stalling occurred suddenly when engine well hot, Steve advised me it could be a faulty transistor in the CIS module, back to work when temperature decreases.
Hi Xavier, Thanks, I didn't know "Sport & Collection"; looked on Internet and looks great. Based in Bordeaux so quite close, could be of interest, but I have some questions about registration and program. Where are you located in France? Can we follow thru PM. Lookind fwd, Cheers, Paul
