boxer window switches

my new window switches have 5 prongs,
old ones have four. heres pics of both and the wiring instructions that came with the new switches. If I hook it up the same way as the old switch, 123 and 5, it goes down but not up. Help!!
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Don't those instructions say that both pins 2 & 4 should have a ground connection (i.e., the new pin 4 should not be unused)?

Can you confirm the wire colors used in your photo? The schematics show (for one of the switches):

one BN (white/black) wire with two female connectors -- this is +12V
one H (grey) wire with two female connectors -- this is ground
one V (green) wire -- one side of the electric motor
another V (green) wire -- the other side of the electric motor

Consequently, the new connections would be:
pin 1 = one of the green wires
pin 2 = one of the grey connectors
pin 3 = one of the white/black connectors
pin 4 = the other grey connector
pin 5 = the other green wire
(and the second white/black connector is unused; and if the up-down action seems backwards just switch the two green wires)

PS Not that this matters for getting your new switches to work, but both the BB512 and BB512i schematics show the stock window switch as having 6 attachment prongs, not 4 -- can you explain? Are there 2 rows of prongs on your "stock" switch (and 6 prongs total)?

 

thanks 91tr, very strange, only 4 wires, 2 greens, one grey, one white/black. I was thinking about splicing an extra connector in the ground wire for the other pin?

 

Yes, that would be my recommendation, but you might want to do some multi-meter measurements just to confirm that the white/black is +12V with a multi-meter, the dc resistance from the green wire to the other green wire is a low reasonable motor winding value, and the DC resistance of the grey wire to ground is lowish (maybe a few ohms maximum). Since the wire colors match up, that's a good sign, but those are easy measurements to make just to be really sure.

If you examine the single white/black and single grey female wire connectors that you still have, can you see if someone phyically clipped off the second wire going to the second connector on each line? Modifying a stock wiring harness would be sort of a no-no IMO (i.e., even if they weren't needed for the old switch that you have, would've been better to just leave them unused rather than remove them).

 

Welcome to the last six+ months of my quest:
http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=142956

I finally, FINALLY (YAYYYYYY!!!!!!) received some "correct" switches from a very persistent Doug at Lyle Tanner, after several sets of those you have in your frustrated hands. Hopefully (I'll have to check with him), he noted the part #s of the pieces that came from a limited source. I suspect they might be DeLorean units, based on the pics on the website noted below, but who cares?!?!?!!??! They work, hook up perfectly, and I'm a happy camper!!!!

As for the pieces you have now, James Patterson (Norwood's) has installed these in a few cars and can instruct you on how to correctly attach the mystery-extra wire to whatever it needs to attach to, in case the four-prong pieces aren't available for a while. In the mean-time, I'm sending my original (and the glovebox switch - both by Torrix) to a rebuilder, and hope you held on to yours for the same reason. The rebuilder knows them from DeLoreans, but they fix the same, he told me.
http://specialtauto.com/delorean-parts/electrical.html

When everyone else struck-out in one way or another, Doug came through with some acceptable substitutes.
That's all Ah have to say 'bout that.....< Forrest Gump voice >

 

when will I learn to learn from others mistakes?? I will not compromise my factory wiring to make these work! thanks for the tip Will, I call tanner tomorow. mark