More grinding. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Shift shaft seal and booth replaced. Fuel lines moved to clear linkage. Nylock nuts added to shifter linkage. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Shift shaft seal and booth replaced. Fuel lines moved to clear linkage. Nylock nuts added to shifter linkage. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nylock machined down 2mm so the plastic insert will catch now. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Stud and nut drilled to pass a wire through. Wire wound clock wise so the nut cannot unscrew itself. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Seam sealer over welded brackets to prevent water getting behind the sheet metal. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I'm always in amazement with the type of work you guys do. Your level of expertise reminds me of the days these cars were hand made at the factories. Just phenomenal! Please continue to post your work, I love to watch the progress.
Chipped engine bay trim repaired and primed for paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I took my 308 to Dan from some TLC in Jan. Seems he just received a brand-new paint booth and Ferrari certified frame straightener. impressive. A very nice, clean shop. That 308/355 was a very good looking car.
Thanks Clyde, we'll have to meet up when the ice/salt finally leaves us. I'm very happy with Bradan's service too.
Very cool Dan. I'm watching this thread like a hawk Mostly surface rust on the frame or did it go deeper?
Mostly surface rust from open welds and sheet metal repairs. Ferrari actually uses high quality steel compared to domestic cars down to even the hardware. The way the cars are built you can section away new sheet metal even if it goes deeper. Unibody cars become headaches to repair when they start rusting.
Axles rebuilt. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login View attachment 137462
Dan - tip for you: If you find the boots are quite tight to fit around the flange, it's easier to reattach the boots with the flange not connected to the joint. You can reach your fingers through the flange hole, and pull the boot out/down from inside the boot. Then attach the flange to the joint. Just thought I'd toss that out there. Enjoy seeing your great work.
Just to be clear, the axles didn't fail, rather the CV boots failed. The axle and CV's were ok, so just clean, re-pack, and fit new boots?
Yes Jim that’s correct but I am also using an accordion style boot to be able to hold up better to the road. My 355 gearbox sits higher (exactly centered though) so I believe when the strut gets extended too far, as in hitting a pot hole, it exacerbates that vertical angle thus tearing the boot. The engine installer was very surprised to hear that the boots had torn as he put probably 60 miles on the car before it was sent back to me. These boots are the same diameter, just a tad longer with a symmetrical circumference.
Installing axles. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login