Didnt find any on mine either, just lead filling seams and high-build primer. No real reason for bondo unless it was repaired in the past. Ferrari was great at using lead and metal finishing rather than cheesing it up.
Passenger 1/4 panel sanded. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rear panel and taillight buckets sanded. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Sanding trunk. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I was wondering about that - surely care was taken not to over heat any sections, but why wasn't paint stripper used?
Soda blasting or media blasting is best, no chemical stripper residue in seams and joints to come back and haunt the painter.
Blasting makes the biggest mess,you can never get rid of all the media,its gets in everywhere and inevitably some will show up when your blowing color.The site of that sander running over the fender ridges,the panels all scratched up,that sander is removing a lot of metal,that looks really awefull,sorry, I apologise for saying that. That GT4 had thin paint,chemical stripping it would be a breeze,apply twice as much as needed and wash it off. Nice smooth body,not scratched up. The body man will use lights to scan the reflections in the bare metal,the scratches impede reflections,heck they are distortion. Painting Ferrari & Rolls require fanatic attention to detail,nooks and cranies,seams and all.
Bare Metal NO Rust Sanding marks and Lead from the Factoy still on the body Image Unavailable, Please Login
Yup. Do you ever find a grinder in an aircraft painting hangar? Nope. Chem strip, clean, sand, clean, prime, clean, block, block, block, etc. Sad to see this happen to a classic car.
Media blasting makes a mess. Parts of the car will be Chemically stripped. We start off coarse and switch to fine sand paper as we work through primer and bondo. By the time we reach bare metal the sand paper is so fine you can use it to wet sand orange peal out of paint.
You have no idea about the chemistry of cars or paint. You've got guys in there with bare hands and bare metal. You're taking metal from the car, and I can bet dollars to donuts that bare metal is sitting overnight, unprotected with humidity etching away - la,de,da and putting a nice sheen of FeO2 down on the surface. Combined with plenty of oily, acidic hand prints. Whatever,,,,
Whoa, guys. This thread is turning ugly by way of "expert" opinions on how to strip a car. I don't think that BRADEN needs to defend himself here. He is executing a job for his customer, and from the photos, looks like he's doing a fine job. First of all, we're not seeing an alloy 275 here, it's a mostly steel GT4. I think think the logic is correct: take a seemingly clean car and strip it down as quickly as possible so you really know what is underneath. What is under that flat black boxer paint? Is it hiding some repaired rust? Old bodywork? This is between the car owner and shop owner and the estimate to repaint his car yellow on the outside. An estimate is just that - it is open until you know what you are dealing with. BRADEN has the right to do this job at a profit, and is not wasting any time getting to the core of the car. Statements like 'the car will sit and the corrosion will start and it's just a mess' kind of make me laugh. No ****, bare metal starts the corrosion process immediately. It matters not whether you you chemically strip it, media strip it or sand it. The steps afterward are important and I'm sure the shop has a plan, the techs, the equipment and materials to do it right. Let's watch the progress, and I think this GT4 will be a beauty. Just my 2 cents
If you do it in a building! Did several cars with soda and never an issue with dirt plus the soda leaves a protective film on the car that prevents rust so theres no rush to get it in primer. Cost me $1000 to have my GTB stripped inside and out including materials like the GT4 above and it turned out great.
Wow lots of anonymous expertise here. I chose Bradan to do this job because they have been doing some very impressive detailing work on a remarkable number of Ferraris over the past few months. For all I know I am the first guy to have a complete strip and respray in their shop. They quoted me a fair price, and since it's a GT4, not a 288 GTO, I gave them the work. I could care less if they strip the car with Oven Cleaner, it's ONLY about the results. They have proven to be meticulous in their preparation and finish on all of the work that I have seen, and I trust they will do the same on this project. If you have done better quality work on a 1975 308GT4 then please post your in progress pictures and some images of the results- otherwise WAIT for the finished product. IT'S MY CAR, not yours. I am confident this will be among the best GT4's on the planet when it's done. And it will be mine.
Braden's doing a great job. They will prep it right and paint it right, too. I personally would like to see the jamb gun work, especially on the air intakes.
That is very pretty. I assume you used a chemical remover in a dipping container. What did you apply to the body to prevent rust during storage? Are you using 2 or 3 stage priming? When it's painted, will you be curing with heat?
Take it easy Jay. Barnyard lacks any modicum of tact but my question as to why not use a chem stripper (or soda blasting as Newman did) was a fair one. You and Bradan are posting here, which we all sincerely appreciate (Bradan takes great photos and has obviously worked on many, many special cars), but don't take it personally when a lively discussion starts. You have a phenomenal car that I'm sure will look better than new when it's done. Congrats!