Looking at your photos, and those of Newman, it's clear that some of these cars have (potentially) serious rust problems lurking within their depths. Surely several 365s and 512s must be approaching that stage in their lives when some serious restoration work might be warranted. I enjoy your threads a lot -- please keep up the good work.
i was thinking along the same lines. so besides the areas that do manifest themselves...what about the areas that are getting ready to make themselves seen in the coming years? is it fair to assume that besides the damaged areas that are seen...there are many other areas soon to follow? can you pin point other areas in the chassis that would be likely candidates for rust? pcb
I wouldn't be worried about a BBi in nice shape from new. The 76 512 was enjoyed a lot and I suspect not properly stored for a long time. Areas where tubes come down to a blind end are likely to collect moisture and since the frames were bare metal with paint only on the outside it makes sense that the small square tubes would rust from the inside out. Why the large tube is rotten on the side on the 365 above is interesting. I don't doubt there are many older carbed cars running around that have similar issues.
It wouldn't be a bad idea to drill a drain hole in such tubes as well as spray some oil in there. The front lower angled tubes on the 76 had water running out of the left one and a rot hole on the right one at the lower end where it butts to the end of the main front frame rails. Water gets in there.
Some of these issues were under fiberglass in the passenger compartment. The door jambs are hidden under a painted panel and the step plate so it can go by unnoticed as well. Note front frame tubes rotting on the bottom dead ends. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
And Sheehan said these cars are not restoration cars. Pft. hah. You guys have your work cut out for you, but certainly a worthy cause.
Welding the chassis. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Black primer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Resurfacing the flywheel. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eo6kYnQkTx0&list=UUfXu0SFbT4oUfKa0lilOXow&index=2&feature=plcp[/ame] [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HkbaBXo82Oo&list=UUfXu0SFbT4oUfKa0lilOXow&index=1&feature=plcp[/ame] Image Unavailable, Please Login
Fender liners glued and riveted in. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Looks shiny -- but does it help? Or in addition to resurfacing is it also being balanced? That sounds useful.
Black primer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The chassis was sanded down and everything we be painted together for an even finish. In total we sprayed 2 coats of primer and 3 coats paint. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We are going to reline the clutch so a fresh flywheel surface is needed. You can see from the before pictures it really needed it. Some deep burning.
Brings back lots of memories. Looks beautiful. lots of hard work makes a car really nice! Keep up the good work. I really like the care in metalwork with photos.