Thank you. No. A proper repaint would cost 15-20k in comparison to $1,750 for a custom paint correction.
Something I never understood, why a Ferrari paint job cost so much. Its just a car. After doing a few complete restoration which these usually don't require, I figure a quality job takes about 44 labor hours avg. body shop labor rate $75-$125 which translates to $3000-$5000 materials and paint being generous is maybe $2k total : $7k this is how I arrive at it... day 1: 8 hours to disassemble (all trim,bumpers and doors disassembled) day 2: 8 hours to do bodywork (on Ferraris is usually minimum) and prep for paint(sealer coat) day 3: 4 hours to prime coat day 4: cure day 5: 4 hours to paint day 6: cure day 7: 4 hours clear coat day 8: cure day 9: 8 hours wet sand and buff day 10 8 hours to re-assemble
I'm afraid your time estimates are far off. This paint correction alone was 50+ hours of labor. Removing glass alone without breaking is over 8 hours in labor. I would count in months not days how long the full process takes. To avoid overspray, tape lines, etc, the car must be fully stripped to a shell. This is what a 550 looks like mid way through a full color change. Image Unavailable, Please Login
That is like from off resto which most of these cars do not need . But if they did then I would agree. A tear down and tape of some areas is usually what is necessary for the majority. Each car requires a different amount of tear down. I always aim to paint so there is little to no evidence of paint work. I've done to frame off restorations which is what I consider the 550 pictured then labor hours are about double . Having to repair cancer spot thorough fabrication of parts , that is where I consumed the time I changed the on a friends 430 took only about 2 hrs . I was just curious to see how someone arrived at astronomical numbers for basically a straight re paint. Nothing against you, I enjoy seeing your work . I believe you have set a standard amongst the F chat community
Most people would not be satisfied with a $5,000-8,000 paint job on a Ferrari. Materials alone for a full car will run roughly 2,500-3,000. You would have to leave the windows in, tape trim, and spray over the old paint. On something like a challenge car, that would be fine. On a street car, you can do it but it forces you to cut corners and give a car back less then perfect. If you go back to our F355 paint correction, you can see the wet sanding process was 20-30 hours. Rushed work leaves you with inconsistent paint meter readings, orange peal, and sanding marks in the finish. This is why we take photos to show the owner and community what they are paying for and how much work it really takes. With that said, I'm not saying you cannot paint a car on a budget. But I think any shop reading this can agree sometimes you have to turn down work even if you can do it to maintain your reputation.
I agree about rushed work . Glad I'm able to do it myself . Just seemed high to me. Especially when I've done complete show quality off frame restorations for less
Dyno testing. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Reving on dyno before bypass pipes. [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uuhVElJdzY&feature=player_embedded[/ame] Dyno test 0-150 mph [ame]http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=cO_RGmSMZlA&feature=player_embedded[/ame]
Brake calipers changed to correct color and script. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Bradan 550 straight pipes installed. Stock 23 lbs Bradan straight pipes 9 lbs. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Danny, As I mentioned in the 456/550/575M Forum, these are significant and much appreciated dyno results. Your straight pipes are the easiest and most cost-effective way to realize HP and torque gains for the 550 which suffers from a restrictive center resonator as I've pictured below. I had my straight pipes fabricated and installed two years ago after doing much research on the subject and noted the improvement on my first drive with them. Thank you for finally making straight pipes available to 550 owners. Barry Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Seat removed. Carpeting cleaned. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Carpeting finished. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Leather cleaned. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Seats cleaned. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
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Greetings.. I respectfully disagree with your materials assesment.. If your spraying Glasurit or PPG (quality paint systems) your looking at around $1,500.00 for your materials.. plus or minus a few.. the parts that baffles me is the time your spending wet sanding.. 20-30 hours is way too much time.. I would think you would remove all the material your applying plus you will be compromising the UV protectant in the material that you applied. 20-30 hours on a paint correction without re-spay; I would be concerned.. Paint on sheetmetal is paint on sheetmetal... The base coat and clear coat is the same standard for every car with the exception of the new technology that is used to apply clear in the factory.. Place on as a powder then baked to liquify , harden clear.. You can only block / sand so much off.. I love your work, it looks great but.. with that much time you should be down to the primer.. If that 20-30 hours includes you disassembly, that is something different.. It does not add up for me.. R
I had some of the same thoughts. I haven't used PPG so I didn't know the price ranges .I use house of colors or dupont I can not imagine PPG would be any different to work with . I found most of mi time was spend cutting off and welding back new quarter panel, cutting out and replacing floor/trunk boards. Or sandblasting . Most exotic need little to no body repair . It's basically a re spray of the exterior and some jams but I wouldn't see the need to re spray the engine compartment, trunk , floorboards or inside roof.
Unless your changing color.. House of colors is pretty expensive but that would be for a special 1 off color.. or should I say a non production color.. I would not use house of color for regular production colors. Its good.. but Glasurit, PPG, Sikkens, Spies, etc.. is some good sh*t.. and ofcourse using the name brand clear, reducer, hardeners etc.. is super important..