Test welding using the same gauge material to dial the welder in. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Dan - why is it that you guys do this after you strip and prime instead of doing it before hand, or right after stripped obviously? Why prime to only need to remove it? Just curious. Thanks in advance.
Were in a rush to get the bare metal sealed with primer as fast as possible to avoid corrosion when stripped. After we can just sand away small sections to minimize exposure. I used to do the other way around until we discussed it with Glasurit at training.
A lot of guys send me Pms and emails asking for specific materials we're using in the shop so I included most of it to help answer potential questions. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Battery removed and all computers disconnected to avoid electrical issues from welding. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
If you look closely at the panel you can see a bronze weld in the flex areas from the factory. Being over 20 years old its more than likely this was originally Mig brazed. Image Unavailable, Please Login
We used a technique called back purging which uses the same 100 percent mixture of argon gas as a shielding gas on the back side of the weld to avoid corrosion from mixing with oxygen during welding. Remember, corrosion protection is very important when doing any welding on the body. Corrosion on the back side of the weld will cause a failure. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
We're able to reproduce the same weld with Silicone bronze MIG brazing. It's basically a mixture of copper, silicon, tin, iron and zinc. The major benefit is its lower melting points avoids potentially warping a panel with tremendous heat, which is a major concern when working with thin sheet metal. We use pure argon shielding gas with .8 mm silicone bronze welding wire with a teflon liner. We use a Cebora pulse mig welder. It's made in Italy and considered the most advanced welder currently on the market and the only one with approval from Ferrari. It has the ability to weld Aluminum, high strength steel, and tranditional steel from the same machine. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
More welding. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Welds buzzed down and ready for primer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Weld area primed with Glasurit 801-703 etching primer. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Amazing work as always. I can't imagine it being cost effective though over dumping the car and buying a clean example of one? I'm assuming there's sentimental value for the owner.
Silicon bronze is an excellent choice IMO. Personally I would tig it to save all that grinding time but mig works too.
Finding a clean example may not be as straightforward as it seems. Do we really know what's going to break on these cars? Even after an expensive PPI, I was still able to find another 30 defects on my car after purchasing it. I think this level of service/attention to detail that Bradan is offering will give you peace of mind for many, many years and a car to treasure.
I definitely agree...but I think as a starting point they probably would've been better off getting a nicer example. That said, I don't know what the bill on this job is going to be. My 355 is a higher mile, well maintained example. I struggle with the thought of replacing it with a nicer example, or sending it to Bradan for a full restoration. I just don't think the value would be there since these cars are still dependant on mileage when it comes to resale (for the time being anyway).
Block sanded with guide coat to show low spots. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Rage gold poly. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Resprayed in Glasurit 801-703 Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Body sanded with guide coat. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Body sprayed with Glasurit 285-20 primer with a Sata 100 B F primer gun. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login