These sturdy, stainless steel brake lines are a direct replacement for the factory-standard rubber lines typically used by most vehicles. Unlike the standard components, the material in stainless brake lines wont expand through normal use, significantly improving both pedal feel and deceleration response time. Additionally, stainless steel provides a much more reliable and consistent product, preventing deterioration common in rubber components. Our brake lines feature an interior PTFE hose covered in a stainless-steel weave, treated with a translucent, abrasion-resistant coat. Lines are burst tested up to 3,000 PSI, and fully DOT compliant (MVSS-106). $195 First 10 buyers receive discounted price of $145. Call 631-585-8600 to order. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Nice. When I changed the brake lines on my motorcycle to stainless it made a huge difference in feel. I'll have to think about this for when it's time to do the next brake fluid change on my 355 spider.
I was wondering if these did in fact make any difference in the feel. Sounds like a CHEAP price to pay for a little better performance, no?
These do fit the 348 also. I noticed a huge change in pedal feedback on our F355. Keep in mind though we do have very high miles and I doubt the stock lines have ever been changed. Goodridge is well known for producing top quality lines for motorsports. They manufacture our lines. To be honest though most lines are similar in quality at this level.
It is a matter of remaining consistent over time and under race conditions. There are many variables that would affect if you feel a difference or not. Its not a simple yes or no answer. We have sold 4 sets since this morning. We really appreciate the support from the community.
The regular rubber brake lines do eventually wear out too, I was thinking of it partly as an upgrade, but also as preventative maintenance.
This is a HUGE deal. I already bought mine last month from the competition. Too late for me, but somebody JUMP on THIS!!!
First 10 sets sold. Thank you very much. Please post up your driving impressions once installed. 550/575 lines have just be released with the same sale. http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=291765
Lines are installed, and the pedal is certainly firmer (as expected). I installed Speedbleeders (see photo) all around at the same time, making the bleeding exercise after installing the brake lines so much easier. The bleeders are polished stainless steel, and you loosen them 1/4 turn, get in the car and pump the pedal (remember to have the key turned to the 'run' position) 3-4 times, and then close the bleeders. Done! I bought their bleeder bag, and it is an inexpensive and terrific companion to the bleeders. The brake line install is pretty straightforward, other than the female fittings on the Bradan lines are slightly shorter than the stock lines, and you'll need to put a little effort on the steel lines to get them to mate. Otherwise, they are really well done line. When breaking loose the fittings, get an 11mm brake nut wrench to ensure it doesn't slip and round the fitting. You'll also need a 17mm open-end wrench to hold the female fitting on the lines. Break them loose first, then remove the clip that holds the line to the bracket. On the install, push the new line through the bracket and capture it with the clip; then thread the hard line into the new sheathed line. Make sure you tighten it back up, and use the 11mm brake nut wrench. The pictures are of the rear of my car; the front is much the same. Great product at a very fair price. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
^^^^^^^^^^^^ This Even though FBB advised me on the correct way to do things, the 11mm end was so frozen and stripped that I was able to instead get the 17mm end moving - so I just went with it. Resist all f-ing temptation to do anything with the 17mm wrench besides hold the female fitting while you work the 11mm end free. Let me just emphasize that if you don't follow this procedure, your day will end very badly. Ask me how I know...the good news is that the brake line you just f-ed up is only $25 from Ricambi. Instead, if that 11mm end won't move then apply some WD-40 and some heat to loosen that SOB up.
Not sure if the 348 and 355 calipers are the same; if they are, I used PN: SB1010S-SS (SS for stainless steel). The stainless were $15 each, and you'll need 8 fittings. Regarding the 17mm wrench....YES, you do not turn the female fitting, but use the wrench to offer resistance to the torque from the 11mm wrench as you break it loose. I found my fittings to be very easy to release. But I emphasize having a specific brake fitting wrench to ensure you do not mess-up the nut.
does anybody know if the brake calipers are the same and/or the bleeder valves are the same size for 348 and 355? Kai
The bleeder valve is OEM part #152954 UNION. A quick search shows that they are the same. Thank you for posting Bob.
There are a couple problems with the ferrari lines:1) they could be bent from the factory in a way to encourage the 11mm nut from riding on the tubing and galling on it. 2) there could be factory undercoating on the brake line 3) the dang thing is corroded on there from the factory application of 1 million ft-lbs. The solution can be penetraing oil, heat, heat w/ oil and the proper tools. An open end wrench is fine unless you need more torque to get the nuts loose then you need the proper tool which is a brake line flare wrench as pictured below. You can see the narrow wrench vs the flare wrench thickness to support the nut and the 270 degree surround of the flare vs the open end wrench. These just happen to be the Ferrari F1 factory tools from USAG. They happen to fit better on Ferraris than anything else I have tried but they don't have the stoutness of snap-on. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
I wanted to resurrect this thread as I used it for guiding me in the project I just completed and I had a couple observations that others may find useful. First off, I had Bradan repaint and refurb a set of 355 Calipers that I had . I have black ones OEM but wanted to try yellow and didnt want to permanently alter by OEM. They did a SUPERB job on the calipers. Media blasted, powder coated and clear coated. They looked beautiful. New piston seals and bleeders where needed as well. Great job and Dan is an attentive, knowledgeable guy. I bought the Goodridge Phantom brake lines. They are SS coated black. Nice product. Goodridge Fluid Transfer Systems On to the install. I went and bought an 11mm flare wrench from Napa and started in. The first fitting to break was the right rear and it was a disaster. From try one wrench turned on the nut and I was a mess. Vise grips and a lot of frustration and I got it loose but said there is no way I am doing this all around. I called Dan late Friday afternoon as he was good enough to give me his cell and he said get a Snap On wrench. It you cant get one I will Fedex overnight one next week. I tried again with a tighter fitting open end 11mm but could not break it and had no confidence in the feel of the wrench on the nut. I put PB Blaster and heat on it. Still nothing. To the internet and I found a Snap On dealer on Saturday morning and went to his house and bought the 11mm wrench and the 11mm claw type. NOt cheap but I went home and put that wrench on the nut and actually had to tap it in place as the tolerances were so close. When I put my hands on it just by the feel I had the confidence to go with it and it broke the nuts in 2 seconds. The Snap On dealer explained to me that their closed wrenches have the female pointed areas rounded so the nut doesn't hang on that area and you get just flat on flat. I have some pictures below of that area just FYI. The claw type was very useful on the front brake line joint right behind the rotor. YOu put a 3/8 extension and ratchet on that and you have great clearance with your hands. In a nutshell. IMO, do not attempt doing your brake lines without a Snap On flare wrench!! Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
Here is one from what you emailed me - I'll forward the email back to you. Image Unavailable, Please Login
A look at Bradan's work. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
