Brake Bleeding

Hi Everyone,

Im about to upgrade my brake system for a 380mm big bake kit. For that I need to change the brake oil and bleed the system.

Do anyone here has used this product to bleed and refill the system?

http://www.toolfetch.com/Category/Automotive/Brake_Tools/Brake_Bleeding/MITMV6835.htm

 

There are many good products to help bleed brakes and clutches. I haven't used the one you've listed, but I really like one made by "Motive Products". This product puts a small pressure, 5 psi, to the reservoir with a built-in pump. Just loosen the bleeders and fluid flows out continuously. Great for bleeding tough jobs like clutch slaves, which can drive you crazy. The instructions on the Motive unit say to fill their bottle with fluid, but I use it dry. Just don't let the master run out of fluid. The bottle is sized so that you rarely have to add pressure. I've been using mine for years and am quite happy with it. I have heard of others who tried 15 psi and blew up the reservoir. Don't do that. More info here, and it's cheap:

http://store.motiveproducts.com/european-bleeder--0100-p34.aspx

Steve

 

I have that product. It's a vacuum bleeder. Pressure bleeding tools like the Motiv are way better IMHO.

 

Thanks both of you guys!!

 

This has been brought up before...

http://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/showthread.php?t=279642&highlight=Warning+Motive+bleeder

 

Yes, and the conclusions were 1) Use the Motive dry, and 2) Only use 5 psi

 

FWIW, on every car I've ever worked on, I've gotten a firmer pedal (less air) by using the old fashioned 2 person method (someone in the car to pump pedal while I open/close bleeder screw). Be advised some swear this makes it worse and could cause master cylinder failure because you are pushing the master cylinder piston past where it is used to traveling, i.e. places where there may be rust or other imperfections, so judge for yourself what you want to do. Also, be sure to cap off your brake lines not only to avoid losing excessive fluid but to try to avoid getting air into the ABS unit. Despite your best efforts, when changing out calipers or brake lines, you get some air into the ABS anyway. You can approximate bleeding the ABS by going to a deserted parking lot and using the brakes hard enough to active the ABS. Do it a few times, bleed and then do it again. The other way to do it is to have a special machine cycle the ABS in the shop while you bleed the brakes. I hope all goes well and safely.

 

Doing the two person method often makes the brake pedal go all the way to the floor and the piston goes past where the seals normally travel. What can happen in this case is if there is a bit of grit sitting where the piston doesn't normally travel, the grit can damage the seal a bit and reduce the life of the seal. An easy fix is to put a 2x4 block of wood on the floor under the brake pedal and this prevents the pedal from going all the way to the floor.

** Just remember to remove the block when you want to drive the car.**