brake issue

This issue is the incompatibility between the stock pad residue and the friction material on the aftermarket pads. If you'd turned (ground) or sanded the rotors before installing the aftermarket pads, it would not have done this.

IMO, there is nothing wrong with leaving it as it is and driving through it, but if it bugs you, I would turn the rotors and then reinstall the aftermarket pads. Whenever you change brake pads to a different compound and definitely if you switch brands, resurface rotors again.

 

There is a pad bedding process that you never have to worry about at street speeds but sometimes you do need to worry about with track conditions of heavy use. Improper bedding can also messup pad transfer and give you symptoms you describe. You can also us a harder compound and take a lap and scrub off the previous compound but it is hardly worth the trouble. Sometimes if the pad is not up to the track conditions you waste the pad have problems you describe. Pads for the conditions makes a huge difference in these kinds of minor pita things.

 

I normally agree with Procoach but on this I disagree entirely insofar as turning rotors is concerned. Sanding or scotch brite by hand to take off residue and expose bare metal, fine, but turning removes material and that is the last thing one should do to a rotor, esp. A big, heavy car that needs thermal mass (capacity to store kinetic energy). I never, ever turn rotors for a track car. I use them until they are too thin, cracked or have too much runout (rare). I think you can just drive through the residue. I suspect you might have also gotten the fresh pads a wee bit too hot in bedding, so they wiped excess residue, too. Part of bedding can be to cook the resin out of the pad. Finally, a big heavy powerful car puts massive energy into pads and rotors. That powerful 500 lb engine is more than matched by 25-30 lb rotors that dissipate the power probably 2-3x as fast as the engine makes power and are cooled entirely by air. Very harsh!

Here is a reasonably priced water mist setup for brakes we ran in Viper Cup in 2010. Reliable, and the bonus was much longer pad life and hub bearing life:

http://www.seinesystems.com/MPC-BrakeCool.htm

 

I agree with this advice.



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My blog post on managing brake heat/ energy: http://www.separationofcontrols.com/posts/brake-overheating/

Best,
Rob

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