Brake Problems | FerrariChat

Brake Problems

Discussion in 'Technical Q&A' started by rcraig, Jan 31, 2009.

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  1. rcraig

    rcraig F1 Rookie

    Dec 7, 2005
    2,960
    Maryland
    Full Name:
    Bob Craig
    Strange brake problems. Decided to bleed brakes after them feeling a little soft. After bleeding with Motive bleeder and Castrol fluid. 15 PSI. whole quart of fluid. Can see no air left in system , but brakes push all the way to floor and failure light comes on. Can be pumped and brakes will work but slow pressure will push to floor and failure light. It also appears that fronts seem to be working fine, but rears intermittent. Cleaned the contact switch on top of proportional valve near firewall. Tried to take off rear valve that splits pressure between both back wheels , but could not budge nuts. Scared to strip nuts. 11MM wrench does not seem to be tight enough and 7/16 also wiggles a bit. I even tried old fashioned bleed technique with someone pumping pedal and also forcing fluid back up lines through giant syringe and hose on nipple. Help.
     
  2. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,931
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #2 Steve Magnusson, Jan 31, 2009
    Last edited: Jan 31, 2009
    If fluid isn't exiting the system, this is a bad sign for the MC internal seals (regardless of the electrial failure light -- which I think is just a natural consequence if the forward chamber of your MC isn't working properly).
     
  3. Motob

    Motob Formula 3
    Professional Ferrari Technician

    Nov 11, 2003
    2,387
    Frederick, Maryland
    Full Name:
    Brian Brown
    Either you still have some air in the system that you cannot get out, or the brake master cylinder is defective. Have you tried pressure bleeding the system while having someone pump on the pedal? If you have pumped a quart of fluid through the system, and it comes out clean with no air from all of the bleeders, then I would say that your brake master cylinder has a problem.

    The next step would be to remove, disassemble and inspect the master for damaged/worn seals or corrosion in the bore.
     
  4. rcraig

    rcraig F1 Rookie

    Dec 7, 2005
    2,960
    Maryland
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    Bob Craig
    Thanks for input , but I had the master cylinder rebuilt by White Post restoration about 2 years ago.
     
  5. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,856
    NoNJ/Jupiter FL
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    Steve W.
    Bob,

    The system on the 308s is a very basic system. It's not like you've got ABS or dual masters, or anything like that. There are only a few things that can cause that symptom. First, you can have a leak somewhere. You say that nothing is leaking, but double check each wheel to be sure and all fittings. Also, check to be sure the pads are not excessively worn down, as this will increase pedal travel.

    Next, it could be air in the system. I would recommend doing a very careful bleed, the old fashioned way: Make sure the reservoir is topped up; have someone push the pedal for you; start with the right rear, left rear, right front, left front, bleed each corner. Have your helper push on the pedal, open the bleeder, as the pedal nears the floor, close the bleeder. Repeat a few times to be sure there are no air bubbles, and close the bleeder as your helper is pushing the pedal down for the last time. Do all 4 corners that way, topping up the reservoir between each wheel. The pedal should be nice and firm.

    If you STILL have a sinking pedal, IMHO it can only be one thing -- the MC seal. Even though White Post just did it for you, it is possible the seal has gone bad, especially if some dirt or corrosion got in the MC and scored the seal. The MC is easy to rebuild, and change the seal yourself if you want to give it a go, assuming the cylinder itself is in good condition and not corroded or scored.
     
  6. rcraig

    rcraig F1 Rookie

    Dec 7, 2005
    2,960
    Maryland
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    Bob Craig
    Thanks Steve. The simplicity is the reason I'm scratching my head like an idiot. A friend, who was a drag racing mechanic for 20 years and I tried the pump it up routine at least 5 full rounds of all 4 wheels. I'm pretty sure we did it thoroughly. Guess it's time to go after the MC seal. Bob
     
  7. maurice70

    maurice70 F1 Rookie

    Jan 25, 2004
    4,334
    Sydney
    Full Name:
    maurice T
    Its possibe that the brake fluid may be leaking into the brake booster.I found that out the hard way as well
     
  8. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
    5,856
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    Steve W.
    That's true, but if he is not seeing any loss of brake fluid from the reservoir, leaking into the booster probably isn't very likely.
     
  9. rcraig

    rcraig F1 Rookie

    Dec 7, 2005
    2,960
    Maryland
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    Bob Craig
    Any info available on how this is accomplished? Thanks Bob
     
  10. fatbillybob

    fatbillybob Two Time F1 World Champ
    Consultant Owner

    Aug 10, 2002
    29,220
    socal
    I vote for air in the system. Dragracer don't use brakes what does he know? Just kidding. 5 ways the wrong way does no good. I have noticed the threads on Ferrari bleed screws are poor. They allow air in as you bleed sometimes if you open them too much during a bleed. quarter turn is all you need. Some calipers also have an inside bleed screw so you have to take the wheel off to bleed well especially if you sucked air the first time by allowing the reservoir to get too low with the motive bleeder. Under those conditions you may have to prime the master and then bleed at each wheel two man style no motive! You will need to now move air all the way from the master! Also you can trap air in nooks and crannies and not purge the air in a slow constant pressure bleed. Try this trick at the right rear first. Tell your buddy to pump pump pump and on the forth pump he goes to the floor and holds there and you crack the bleeder 1/4 turn on the count of 4 at the same time. The momentum moves the air/fluid fast and sometimes you will be greeted with a blast of air and fluid. If you get air after doing this a few times you know what's wrong. Air! This trick also works great on clutch purges. A master seal is possible and you can diagnose it by severing the master outputs and screwing in a plug. If you press the pedal and the pedal moves you got a master seal blown up. If it is rock hard you still got air in your lines down stream. Before you do this make sure to purge air in the master by making a loop from the master outflow to the master reservoir and pump it up a few times until you get good flow. Then all the air will be out of the master and it can do its job. This is why it is so important to make double damn sure you don't suck air at the master when you bleed. I have seen this and fixed this issue too many times to count. Good Luck!

    White post does a good job BTW and should last longer than 2 years easy. heck the seals in your calipers could be be 20 and are probably fine.
     

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