348 - Brakes and Rotors Refurbish | FerrariChat

348 Brakes and Rotors Refurbish

Discussion in '348/355' started by Ferrarium, Jun 25, 2021.

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  1. Ferrarium

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    #1 Ferrarium, Jun 25, 2021
    Last edited: Jun 25, 2021
    My 90TS runs great now. It also stops fine... unless I am on the highway at 80mph, then its like stopping a Pinto with drums. I suspect its due to some slight air in the lines and the horrible OEM Pagid brake pads which are very old t this time. The OEM pads are about as grippy as a block of stainless steel. In any event, I wanted to turn the rotors as they are lightly worn but no one does it anymore, at least around here. I don't like putting new pads on rotors with grooves or ridges from old pads. More OCD that actual issue. So I opted for new rotors and pads all around.

    I ordered from Superformance in the UK and it is worth noting that I did 2 orders, one for the front and 1 for rear. Both orders from order time to arrival was 3 days. So order Monday and get it on Wed. Crazy huh.

    The front rotors come painted and the rears do not as you an see. The fronts after the first brake bedding rounds will scrub that paint off the surface and the rotor portion it will look the the rears, except the rest will be protected from corrosion. So I will clean, prep and paint just the rear hats which are visible behind the wheels to prevent that rusted look over time.

    Brake rotor part numbers are the same for 348 and 355, the rears are actually 6 mm or so larger diameter than the fronts. Sure hope they clear the caliper.:eek:

    Here is an inventory incase someone wants to refurbish brakes.
    2x Front Brembo drilled rotors (#160051B https://www.superformance.co.uk/348/brakes.html)
    2x Rear Brembo drilled rotors (#160052B https://www.superformance.co.uk/348/brakes.html)
    2x set of 4 Ferodo DS pads. (hi performance OEM, low noise and dust. Vette OEM not accord OEM) (
    70000875/FDS)

    8x Pad/Pin grease (grease pins, pad backs and pad shoes) (Auto parts store)
    2x StopTech SS brake lines (front #50.03001, rear #950.03500)
    6x Motul brake fluid (Motul RBF 600)
    1x VHT Flame proof silver paint for rotor hats (#VHT SP106)
    2x 100 ml Syringe to extract fluid from the reservoir (Ebay, "100ml Large Plastic Syringe" they are everywhere)
    1x 15 foot clear vinyl hose to attach to bleed screw for bleeding (other end into Gatorade bottle) (Home depot)
    1x Caliper piston compressor tool (Ebay "Piston Compressor Disc Brake" they are everywhere)
    1x can Alcohol to wipe down the before install or painting harts (Home depot)
    1x Schwaben Euro cap Pressure bleeder (Premium European Brake Bleeder # 007237sch01aktKT)

    https://www.superformance.co.uk/348/brakes.html
     

    Attached Files:

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  2. GTO Joe

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    Eric, FYI, the original gray coating on Euro discs is Wurth "SBS Brake Treatment". Somewhat hard to find here in the USA but is designed to be sprayed on the rotor surface to help bed the pads and prevent rust. It works very well.
     
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  3. Ferrarium

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    Good info thanks! Found a 4 pack on ebay. A bit spendy but easy to find and bought 2 minutes ago. Will use that instead and do the entire whole rotor surface, much easier too.

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  4. GTO Joe

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    Glad you found it, it can be hard to get. I have used it for years on my Porsche. It does last a lot longer than it states in their write up and is easy to renew if you need to.
     
  5. Ferrarium

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  6. GTO Joe

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    I don't put it on thick, just spray like you do ordinary lacquer spray paint. You may want to do two coats, it does dry real fast.
     
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  7. MAD828

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  8. Ferrarium

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    But wait a minute the wurth product says you can spray it on rotors and pads. My brembos came coated on it on every surface as you can see in the picture. Are you saying you shouldn't have it on the surface where the rotor touches the pad?

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  9. MAD828

    MAD828 F1 Rookie

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    That may be, but with a blank rotor your free to do it how you like.

    If you use a high temp paint type product on the mating surface of rotor to the wheel they often get hot enough to melt and if the paint is thick enough you can have issues with the retaining bolts loosening and/or the wheel bolts loosening. I would not apply a paint to the rotor face. The zinc coating is quite thin and has a heat rating of 490 degrees so it’s much safer. High heat engine paint is not suitable imo.
     
  10. MAD828

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  11. Ferrarium

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    Right I won't be using paint I'm using the wurth product now. As soon as I get it.

    All four of those roters are brembo , well that's what I ordered, that's what the invoice says and the part numbers show.

    I do like your technique though. May do that.


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  12. MAD828

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    The uprated cross drilled rotors that superformance sells are not actually brembo but copies. The only ones listed as “brembo” and not supersedes or replaces are the real deal. There is nothing wrong with the others but they are aftermarket. The Brembo parts they list will be coated like the ones I have pictured and they cost more, than the blanks that are uncoated.
     
  13. Ferrarium

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  14. GTO Joe

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    To make sure there are no misunderstandings the Wurth product I mentioned above is designed to be sprayed on the entire surface to eliminate squeal and will not effect the pads. The side benefit is it prevents rust and matches what comes from the OEM. I also used to use the other Wurth paint and hated having to mask off the rubbing surface. Putting paint where the pads rub is asking for problems. The "Brake Quiet" is an aluminum coating and not a true paint. It is even recommended for spaying on the contact surface of drum brakes.
     
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  15. MAD828

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    It looks like a safe product to use. It’s not the OEM colour though if that’s what you are going for, it is silver/alloy. The OEM finish is matte grey. Original finish is a zinc coating not alloy. The product I use is almost entirely comprised of zinc. It’s not like a paint.
     
  16. GTO Joe

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    Just to put some additional perspective on this subject the Wurth product contains some aluminum as per the SDS content but doesn't propose to be a alloy product. I like Elliot am very OCD when it comes to things like this and having been a concours judge on the regional and national level for over 40 years I don't make statements without data to back it up. I must admit that I have done very little in the Ferrari competition area but was raised on the NCRS judging formula that is based on exactly how a vehicle left the plant and trust me, their standards are beyond OCD. Below are two pictures of Brembo rotors that show the finish that was installed by the OEM. What you will find is the coating that is applied starts out somewhat brighter and over time fades to a dull gray. The first shot is from my '18 Vette with the Brembo track brakes. I sprayed a piece of scrap metal with the Wurth and you can see the match. The second picture is a NOS 930 Porsche rotor I dug out of my parts stash. If you look closely at the label on the Porsche box below you can see the date on the label is June of '98. I also did a comparison to the orginal rotors on my '97 Boxster and while they are also faded from washing since I got the car new in '97 (it has "355" type milage, 23,000 :) ) and they are identical to the picture of the 930 part. While these are not Ferrari parts to compare against it is difficult to think Ferrari would change what the OEM mfg of the part would supply. Just wanted to lend some additional data should anyone in the future find this post and be confused. View attachment 3167578
     

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  17. Ferrarium

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  18. WATSON

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    No fun....it's messy, but it's not a horrible job. At least not on a 355.

    One of mine split a few years back. I called Lakeforest Ferrari for an estimate to replace them because I didn't want to do them myself.

    They called back and said "$1,800".

    Me: "$1,800 to swap four rubber boots"?

    They replied "Oooohhh, you want to do BOTH sides?"

    I did them myself one weekend.
     
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  19. Ferrarium

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    Ha ha , yep that's what I thought.

    The early 348 is like the mondial, there is no outside axle nut, CV unbolts from back side of hub. It's a bit worse to do. The issue is not difficulty it's the freaking mess and tough frozen bolts.

    Ugh.

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  20. Challenge

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    I like using a 20-inch long 1/2" extension so you can reach straight in through the wheel well and avoid any access issues you may have from above.
     
  21. Ferrarium

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    That is the plan after cleaning out and drying the holes toughly.
     
  22. Ferrarium

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    Okay well my Schwaben cap didn't seal and first time I pressurized it fluid came pouring out of the bottom of the front of the car. UGH. Had to pull that liner for the 13,000th time. Cleaned it all up wiped it down.

    Reseated the cap with a liner out pressurized the 12 PSI and bleed 5 quarts through including the clutch.

    Did the rears the fronts then the rears in the fronts again. Then I did the clutch.

    This is what I got. How nasty is that. And it had an engine out 2 years ago. A majority of that dark stuff came from the clutch nipple end. It's clear now of course.

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  23. Ferrarium

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  24. Ferrarium

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  25. Ferrarium

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    Now to find replacement CV snap rings/circlips. UGH.:mad:
     

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