Break solid frozen....but brougth her in. | FerrariChat
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Break solid frozen....but brougth her in.

Discussion in '308/328' started by 11506apollo, Oct 24, 2008.

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  1. 11506apollo

    11506apollo F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 16, 2008
    2,721
    Tx Co Ca
    #1 11506apollo, Oct 24, 2008
    Saw the car today for 1st time. Paid the owner, got title, and tried to roll her out of the garage.
    Not moving. Parking brake was on for 2 years. Gear in neutral, sprayed WD40 on all 4 discs. She moved a little. 3 guys pushing. Small flat spot on the tires. Tires in excellent shape, other than the flat spots. Paint looks wonderfull as she sat under a car cover, inside garage.
    Inside smells very weird. Carpet looks old and dirty. Owner guaranteed me no water damage from Ike.
    Car rolled a little. More wd40. Rolling ok now. Steering heavy. managed to roller her onto flat bed trailer. Straps in place. Drive back to Houston unneventfull, other than re-tigthtening straps a couple times, and a bunch of drivers giving me "thumbs up".

    I think she needs ALL fluids drained, and replaced. Also, new fuel filter and pump. Brakes checked. New battery. and then I will try to crank up engine for first time.

    I just want to get her "resusscitated" and running again.

    Upgrades, interior, engine work, etc will come later.

    Any other suggestions fellows? Thanks.
    Claudio
     
  2. GrigioGuy

    GrigioGuy Splenda Daddy
    Lifetime Rossa Owner

    Nov 26, 2001
    33,430
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    Enzo Gorlomi
    #2 GrigioGuy, Oct 24, 2008
    Post pictures!

    When were the belts done? Tensioner bearings? Be very careful about those -- if something's not moving you're looking at a LOT of work and damage.
     
  3. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Feb 24, 2006
    15,833
    Cerritos, CA.
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    Mike
    #3 miketuason, Oct 24, 2008
    nevermind when belts and bearing replaced, just replace it before even cranking it.
    Also drain old gas and replace fuel filter
     
  4. Modeler

    Modeler F1 Veteran

    May 19, 2008
    7,330
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    a.n.other
    #4 Modeler, Oct 24, 2008
    Last edited: Oct 24, 2008
    Look for water oil emulsion and water grease emulsion at hubs, calipers, dip-stick etc if there's any thought she may have had a swim.
    I'd be doing that and then jacking each corner to discover where the rolling resistance and steering weight was coming from.
    After that would depend on what I'd found.
    I wouldn't turn it over before knowing for sure its not been submerged.

    Am hoping you're not going to pay too heavy a price for doing your examining after paying instead of before.

    As Tillman suggested post pics of the car both overall and details. The combined expertise here can then possibly be of use to you.
     
  5. chrmer3

    chrmer3 Formula 3

    May 19, 2006
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    Chris
    #5 chrmer3, Oct 25, 2008
    I would not dare start her until you took a hard look at the engine & everything related to the timing belts... If those wheels were stuck I would be pretty confident in a presence at one time of high moisture content or water damage. That smell in the interior- if musty- is a tell tale sign she got wet. You have no idea how expensive things can get if there are moisture related issues....

    Good Luck
    Chris
     
  6. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

    Oct 29, 2004
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    Paul
    #6 Artvonne, Oct 25, 2008
    I would seriously NOT attempt to start the engine until you have completely serviced it. Pull the plugs and turn the engine by hand and verify correct valve timing before trying to spin it over with the starter and run compression tests. Hope you got a really good deal on it.
     
  7. 11506apollo

    11506apollo F1 Rookie
    Silver Subscribed

    Oct 16, 2008
    2,721
    Tx Co Ca
    #7 11506apollo, Oct 25, 2008
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    The storm was pretty recent, and I know what to look for if the water rose to the garage floor. There was no water damage in the entire garage, or other cars. I am alsmost 100% that the "not moving" issue was caused by the fully deployed hand brake for 2 years, and pads stuck to the rear disks. The underbody panels were/are clean. We definitely heard the noise coming from the rear pads "grabing" the disk, as we tried to push her. The soaking on wd40 helped a lot, so I don't think water was there. The smell inside is not of mold...is just from a closed car, under a cover, in the heat of south louisiana, and not "breathing" properly. I am re-doing the interior anyways. New carpet, liners, and new leather,....eventually.
    I will try and focus on the fluids, battery, etc. I will take it to Vintage as soon as I hear back from them. Not openned on Sat I guess.
    I'll try and scan the receipt from FoH to show you, showing about $10k in work done 2 years ago. Lots of work...lots of $ spent by Tom (prev. owner).
    Thanks guys.
    Claudio
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  8. Modeler

    Modeler F1 Veteran

    May 19, 2008
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    a.n.other
    #8 Modeler, Oct 25, 2008
    Well things don't sound so bad after all.
    What year is she? You can have fun adding her to your profile now which helps when you post a query.
    Was she in use up to two years ago when parked?
     
  9. 11506apollo

    11506apollo F1 Rookie
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    Oct 16, 2008
    2,721
    Tx Co Ca
    #9 11506apollo, Oct 25, 2008
    Well, the docs I have show 11,850 miles till late 2006, after that she sat.

    I am happy with the pait, because it really looks shinny and I didn't see any rust on underpanels, etc. No spider cracks either.
    She has metal pedals and foot rest.
    I have two questions though,

    What's up with Ferrari manual stick, when you have to push it "down" to change gears? I have driven manual Trannys all my life, and I was surprised with this one. Is that the way this works? On all gear changes?

    Also, she has only one side view mirror, on the driver's side, is that correct?

    She has tools, but no manual. However I have a CD with digital manuals for all 3XX series.

    Thanks guys.

    Claudio
     
  10. Artvonne

    Artvonne F1 Veteran

    Oct 29, 2004
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    #10 Artvonne, Oct 25, 2008
    You only push down for reverse, but, you really shouldnt be shifting it without it running, its hard on the sliders (think, splines that arent matching, but your forcing them anyway). Most likely the added force needed to make a gear change is whats causing you the need to push down harder. Stop it! :)
     
  11. Modeler

    Modeler F1 Veteran

    May 19, 2008
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    a.n.other
    #11 Modeler, Oct 25, 2008
    +1
     
  12. BigTex

    BigTex Seven Time F1 World Champ
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    Dec 6, 2002
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    #12 BigTex, Oct 27, 2008
    Vintage is rarely "open" on weekends but sometimes they are working.....get with them during the week.

    Congrats on bringing it home and good luck on waking her up!!!
     
  13. FasterIsBetter

    FasterIsBetter F1 Veteran

    Jul 22, 2004
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    Steve W.
    #13 FasterIsBetter, Oct 27, 2008
    Looks like you've got the makings of the decent car. If the car was sitting, untouched, for 2 years, the seals on the brakes could well have dried up, making it difficult for the pistons to move. That would account for the rears being tight on the rotors. I'd suggest that you pull the calipers, all 4 of them, and do a rebuild of at least the piston seals, and make sure that the pistons are not rusted or scored. Then bleed the whole brake system with fresh DOT 3/4 fluid (don't use DOT 5 silicone fluid). And in the meantime, stop spraying WD-40 on your brakes. Spray them down with brake cleaner to get the WD-40 off. It has no business being on your brakes, rotors, etc.

    As for the timing belts, even though the car was serviced two years ago, if those belts have been sitting under tension for 2 years, and never cranked over, I'd be very wary of them and want them replaced. Like the flat spots on the tires, they do take a set. As for the tires, check them carefully for dry rot. If you see any cracking in the side walls, get rid of them and buy new ones. You don't want to blow out a tire on the highway. Check the DOT dating on the tires as well. They may be older than you think.

    I also agree with turning the engine over by hand, slowly, and checking the valve timing. Worth the effort. Pull the plugs and put some Marvel Mystery Oil down each plug hole (about a tablespoon), but use a tube to be sure it goes into the cylinder, not the spark plug hole. That will help condition the rings before you start turning the engine over by hand.

    You also need to dump any remaining gas that is in the tanks, and make sure that the fuel lines and carbs are free of varnish/gum buildup.

    Lots to do bringing an old car back to life, but hopefully, it will be a good one for you!!
     
  14. Sunracer

    Sunracer Formula Junior

    May 18, 2005
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    Pierre Beniston
    #14 Sunracer, Oct 27, 2008
    this post really covers the best steps for a ressurection, iI would add leave the plugs out and spin the engine over on the starter (after you have the belt situation checked out) until you build oil pressure on the guage. Put a rag over the plug holes to catch the excess MMO as it blows out. Give it a second oil change after 500 miles. REtorquing the head is not a bad idea on engines that have been sitting for years PB
     

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