Buying a GranTurismo --- What to look out for ?

Discussion in 'Maserati' started by finnerty, May 14, 2018.

  1. finnerty

    finnerty F1 Veteran
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    May 18, 2004
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    David
    Hey folks,

    I'm looking to buy a GT in the very near future.

    Mostly I'm concentrating on the 2008, 2009, 2010 models due to price point and the fact that there are a lot them around to choose from. The majority of these cars seem to be well-driven with 30,000 - 50,000 miles on them.

    The GT seems to have a reputation as a good driver car with good reliability so far, but at that amount of mileage, I'm wondering what might creep up and what standard major maintenance items can be expected to come due.

    So, what should I be looking at closely ?

    What should I be watching out for ?

    What are the known "gotchas" on these cars ?

    Thanks :)

    David
     
  2. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie
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    First option is to decide between the F1 box and the hydraulic system.

    For the F1 its clutch life and actuator leaking.

    For all in the range you are contemplating look for dash shrinkage and sticky parts

    Also, do a search on cam variators, there was a flaw in some of the early cars where not enough oil gets to the top of the engine causing one hell of a rattle on cold startup. I was not able to find anything definitive, but search around.
     
  3. azlin75

    azlin75 Formula Junior

    Jul 16, 2017
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    im currently between the Granturismo and the California, both cars have obvious pluses and minuses. The Granturismo has the benefit of a full backseat, no transmission issues (ZF equipped models) and no top issues (since im only interested in the coupe) but it has less power, no hard top convertable option and depreciates like the titanic sinking. in both models im looking at 2013 and up, but have considered a few 2012 Granturismos. Out of what you mentioned id personally opt for the 2010 since from what little info i have found appears the variator issue was perhaps resolved by model year 2010. Personally for the value of the car id forgo the 2009 with the F1 transmission since clutch replacement is pricey and a dealer isnt anywhere near close and even the nearest reliable independent is pretty far away. I suspect that from your comment about the model year you might want to aviod the F1 transmission cars as well but from what i hear its the closest you can get to owning a Ferrari without actually owning one.

    one reason im looking at the 2013-2014 is the minor redesign and upped hp output. I really like the bumper improved look and the improved design of the seats introduced in 2013. and they can be found in the mid 40's and up which is only a bit more then a 2010's unless your looking at the 80+k mile 2008's and there again ill pass.

    These cars were pretty reliable, and have the obvious shortfalls mentioned above which is ironically the same pitfalls of a Ferrari and thats shrinking leather, and sticky interior bits. Make sure you stay up on the maintenance and the scheduled fluid changes. For such a big car they drive rather well and its designed for driving in comfort and it fills that bill well. Also if you do buy one better be prepared to be attached to it because the older they get the harder they are to sell, But so long as its maintained it will be a nice car to cruse in for a long time.
     
  4. Simon^2

    Simon^2 F1 World Champ

    Oct 17, 2005
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    Great cars. I'm just waiting a killer deal to pick one up...

    IMO, go for a 2012 sport or 2013 sport (if you prefer the mini update to the front fascia.)

    Some great deals on 2012's out there
     
  5. finnerty

    finnerty F1 Veteran
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    Thanks for the responses guys --- please keep them coming --- it's very helpful !

    On the subject of the variator / oiling issue with the earlier cars, is this something that is able to be corrected ?

    Did Maserati offer a recall / repair / update campaign to fix this problem ? Or, is it something that it is just the nature of those cars and owners have to live with ?

    Also, other than "noisy startup", is it critical (damaging) to the operation, performance, or longevity of the engine ? Or, is it just a nuisance sort of thing ?
     
  6. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie
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    do some googling, its not really clear (at least not to me).

    Maserati does have a fix, and it involves drilling a hole in a part to allow better oiling. Its an enormously expensive proposition, and if you also change the chains while the front covers are off its well north of $15k.

    I would start the car dead cold, and listen for any noise in the cam variators (forward part of valve covers) if you hear the noise run like hell.

    I recall reading conflicting information: some have said the rattle doesn't affect anything or do any damage, and other say a part breaking would be cause valve train damage. I seem to also recall a cheap fix to run put a switch somewhere that would allow you to turn the engine over a few cranks before firing, so as to give it little more time for oil to get to the top of the engine. I have also been told that the problem can be solved by oil treatment, or by regularly revving to redline.
     
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  8. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    4 years ago I got a 2008 GT with 24.5K miles. Paid $53.5 for it. Great car. Issues:

    - Seized dip stick in dip stick tube (common issue) I diagnosed and fixed myself - had to replace the tube and dip stick as an assembly.
    - electrical connector lead at trans. Diagnosed, procured parts and had Scudiera Performonte fix
    - Head liner fell down (common problem) sold as-is
    - They eat tires - big time
    - They get sticky

    Upgraded to a 1 owner, 7160 mile 2013 Sport mid February ($54K) - took my first drive on Sunday. Had to install a new (Alcantara) headliner (sizable job). The car is nuts - beyond nuts. I loved the 2008 but the 2013 is over the top.


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  9. Hightower

    Hightower Karting
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    I own a 2010 GranTurismo S. Bought with 17K on it. Put 2K on it in 1 year. One of the most enjoyable purchases. Always gets compliments at Park City Cars n Coffee or out driving. Advice:

    1. If storing in cold weather in a safe place--the alarm system eats battery power--either drive it/run it 1x per week to warm up temps OR store it unlocked.
    2. Check dipstick and tube for rust--common. Have previous owner discount cost ($400 labor & parts at dealer) or have dealer fix.
    3. Light/gas tank/trunk button panel left of the steering column--over time, buttons get pushed in and screws holding backing plate get loose. Replacement for me at dealership (putting an entire new panel in) was about $700.

    Other than that, drive it. No car is meant to sit. Lots of 'Italian tune ups' are good for any car. And best of luck! PM me if you have other questions.
     
  10. Hightower

    Hightower Karting
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    Oops photo didn't post of my 2010. Here she is!
     
  11. Dave rocks

    Dave rocks F1 World Champ
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    Yep - I had the dip stick seize in my 2008. Fixed it myself by replacing tube/dipstick together. Cost me less than $200 but I have a lift. Not a fun job.
     

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