cam shaft fitting and cam seal help please "328 Euro"

I bet if you rotate your crank slowly and continue checking with a loose tensioner, you'll find most of your 'floppy' belt again.

I just have a hunch.

 

Just an FYI, incase you didn't know. The Ferrari WSM says rotate two revs and maintain tension on the belts and tighten the tensioner bearing. Ferrari changed the method to rotate the engine twises watching the tensioner bearing. Stop the rotation (after 3 revs) where the bearing is extended the furtherest

FIY Ferrari changed the tensioning procedure from the WSM for QV back in 1984. See the attached SB for the proper procedure for all QVs. The SB discusses 193 model years QV as they were not original equipped with the newer belts.

 

Finding it amusing that the factory book time for tech compensation on a belt change is 6 hrs. Wondering if a degree wheel was part of the procedure.

 

Let's see.

Move car into shop
Open rear deck
Remove ignition wires
Remove plugs
Remove engine brace to rear cam cover
Remove air inlet duct
Remove PCV pipe to cam covers
Loosen fuel distributor mount (necessary to get rear cam cover off)
Remove front and rear cam covers
Prepare heads and cam covers for new gaskets
Set valve lash on cylinders 1 and 8 to 0.5 mm
Lift car
Remove right rear wheel
Remove fender liner
Remove AC, WP and GEN belts
Remove AC compressor
Remove Belt covers
Rotate engine to TDC and lock cams
Loosen tensioner bearing bolts
Compress tensioners and lock
Remove old timing belts.
Install new timing belts
Tension timing belts
Check the marks
Mount degree wheel on crank
Set up dial indicated to cylinder 1 intake timing
Check intake timing
Adjust dowel pin as required for rear bank intake cam timing
Repeat above 3 steps for rear bank exhaust and front bank intake and exhaust
Put everything back together.

Lots of details left out, but that's sort of it.

Not to mention that if the cam covers are coming off, any reputable shop would also check the lash on all the valves and they generally remove the rear deck to do the work.

All in 6 hours? I think they are over charging.

You know, thorn, I never paid much mind to those hours but based on you comment I think it pretty much states volumes about whether Ferrari thinks you need to time the engine at each belt change.

 

John,

You just confirmed my hunch.

I knew some were watching the tensioner and 'setting' the belt off of its max outward movement, and some/many were not; just 2 revolutions and DONE.

I have the SBs nut had not had time to read them.

'THANX' for the 'Heads-Up.'

 

The service bulletin specifies a position to lock down the tensioner nut. I suppose that position is where the maximum deflection is.

 

I suspect it would be one of the positions where both intake and exhaust cams are positioned such that the valve springs put the greatest force on the cams to rotate backwards, thus placing the greatest force on the tension side of the belt. hence, max static load.

 

Or you could wonder how they find 20 degrees ATDC to lock down the tensioner specified in your PDF? A degree wheel and dial gauge are all that are needed to cam time. Ferrari choose 20 degrees to lock down tensioner. That implys a degree wheel is installed. An installed degree wheel would lead me to believe cam timing is also done because it does not take much more time to verify or dial in at this point.

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Easy, you rotate the motor tot he TDC mark for bank1 or bank 2 and then rotate it 20 degree. Nothing to do with timing the cams. And please read "e" above, "stop the rotation.....". But the 20 degree comment is just a heads up as to where the optimum position is so the mechanic knows where to look for max extension. Not an instruction.

What it leads you to believe is what you want to believe. I've given a partial list of what would be involved in removing the parts required to time a 308 QV and prepare it for reassembly. If you "believe" it can be done in the Ferrari allotted 6 hours you are, again, believing what you want to believe.

For those who haven't looked at the SB, here is the complete part on tensioning:

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Note the statement, "As an indication" and the caveat that it applies to only US engines. They don't indicate what the position is for Euro cars, which have different cam timing, hence the position is different.

 

Hi Milkshaker.
Was there a particular reason for choosing the 0.35 - 0.40 mm clearances?
It seems that the workshop manual and owners manual conflict, but the consensus of opinion is that the clearance values were updated to 0.30 to 0.35mm.
Has this opinion changed back to 0.35 to 0.4mm?
I hope not, all mine are just under 0.35mm!