Hi all. Whats the trick to disconnecting these? I see the one latch but worried there may be something else holding on. I don't want to damage them and access/viewing is difficult. I'd like to clean the connections up. Additionally, does anyone have the complete P-codes for open circuit? I believe P1528 is right side Exhaust? P1552 is the right side Intake? What about the left side? Thanks!
Curious about this also. The parts diagram shows a circlip but I can’t see it in the picture of my connector. Image Unavailable, Please Login Image Unavailable, Please Login
The diagram is confusing there. The circlip holds the wire where it actually goes into the valve cover. It doesn’t have anything to do with the connector itself. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
I use two very small flat blade electrical screwdrivers that are approximately 2mm in width. I lift the black locking tabs on the female part of the terminal from the recesses in the grey coloured male terminal. Be warned, the black plastic goes brittle over time due to heat exposure, and it is likely that the tabs will break. The female part of the terminal is part of the solenoid.
Mark since you commented on this and theres a diagram up, if im correct # 27 is the variator that rattles sometimes on start up? Also is it hard to replace Thanks
#27 is just the solenoid that controls the oil flow to the variator. The actual variator is what rattles (on the end of the camshaft). The problem with #27 is that it likes to foul up the connection as it wicks oil through the wiring harness.
There could be a few reasons for rattling: - Wear in the variators - A problem with the non-return valve that maintains pressure in the casting which the variators rest in - Solenoid leakage - Blockage of the small oil filter for the variator supply feed.
- Blockage of the small oil filter for the variator supply feed. Is this filter easy to access once the cam covers are off. I never knew there was even a filter? Is it something to clean or just replace?
The cam end cap / solenoid block must be removed to access it. Part 180266 superceeded by 241406. There's also a surrounding O ring 134233
P.S. As far as I am aware it's supposed to be a lifetime part. It certainly doesn't form part of a routine maintenance schedule. Make of that what you will.
This is all quite helpful. It is nice to have knowledgeable enthusiasts to bounce things off and learn more.
Here is a diagram and is part 30. I was thinking maybe on some cars these filters become slightly clogged triggering potential oil flow issues that may affect the manner the variator functions. If it was not able to get the proper volume of oil, maybe the appropriate pressure would not be reached to trigger the solenoid.
Hi guys, I also have this P1528 error on my 2009 F430, I checked the connectors of the solenoids and in three out of four I found traces of oil, I cleaned them and sprayed a spray to reactivate the contacts, I clear the error but after a few seconds after starting it reappears, I looked for the faulty solenoid by measuring the resistance but they all give me about 11 ohms, any advice?? I have read that in some cases even after replacing the solenoids the P1528 error reappears.
Hey @francesco27 , did you ever figure this out? 1. How did you measure the resistance? 2. Did you wind up replacing the solenoids? 3. Did you still get the error?
@tstuli Did you ever confirm if P1528 is exhaust vs P1552 is intake? And do you know which is physically which on the engine? Is the lower solenoid exhaust while the upper solenoid is intake, and therefore if you get error P1528 then that means the lower solenoid is what’s causing the error?
Based on research p1552 is right bank inlet Exhaust is lower camshaft near exhaust manifold Good solenoid should be 11 ohms approx ..measures across two leads using multimeter Sent from my moto g power using Tapatalk
Oh, on the female side. Duh. Makes sense. Sorry, I’m a visual person, so sometimes I miss the obvious with words. Haha
