Camshaft gun drilling source?

No, it's the left outer boot and the grease is everywhere. I'll find out tomorrow if the joint survived.

 

Mark,

For deep hole drilling call Hanner Industries @ 215-785-5260. Ask for Irvin. I think they are in the lower Bucks County/Langhorne area. Good luck.

Wil

 

Thompson gundrilling, Van Nuys, CA has done them for me in the past.
Anton

 

No, I don't- it was a long time ago. I do know they're still very much in business. Google them.
Sorry I can't be more help.
Anton
BTW, that's some project you've got there. I'm impressed!

 

FWIW after painting my control arms silver I can see the outer boot contacts the upper control arm during rear end squat/max suspension travel.

 

Interesting. I'll check that out.

It turns out though, that the boot failure was a good thing - discovered that all the joints were getting loose on the half-shaft splines. It looks like maybe the extra ponies are not helping matters down there. I have 4 new joints coming and hope they'll still fit snugly on the old shafts.

Thanks for the in-put.

Mark, how are your CVs and half-shafts holding up?

 

Lilja Precision Rifle Barrels can do it. FWIW, I had a custom .22-250 with one of their barrels and HOLY COW was that thing accurate.

http://www.riflebarrels.com/products/deep_hole_rifle_barrel_drilling.htm

Mark Williams Enterprises may be able to do it. They make drag race driveline parts.

http://www.markwilliams.com/customRequest.aspx

Toll Free: 1-800-525-1963
Local: 303-665-6901

 

You got some power . .. check for cracks on your lower control arms . . . find them on both of my cars (one's a stocker not owned long) and turboqv found the same cracks.

Also make sure there's a belleville washer behind the CV joints against the shoulder on the shafts . .. kinda preloads the inner "star" against the snap ring.

 

Winchester?

 

Depending on your equipment, the cost of the material, and the amount of excess material available you could probably drill these holes yourself. In my earlier days I started an apprenticeship for mold making (then finished as Tool & Die) and we used to drill deep holes in mold plates, for coolant, in a drill press. We would mount an angle plate to the table on the drill press with one side on the table and the other hanging down towards the floor. With this set-up we would clamp the mold plate to angle plate and indicate it in. As the depth of the drill press was reached I would lower the plate on the angle plate and drill some more. I recall drilling 3/8" holes probably 18" deep in plates about 1 1/2" thick. We had drill bits of different lengths. The holes would intersect cross drilled holes at the bottom to make a "loop" for coolant flow. I was always nervous doing those, but they always worked-out. We used water based coolant at first then as the hole got deeper we would switch to sulpherized cutting oil. The cutting oil would facilitate chip exhaustion. The drill bits should be sharpened on a machine because any inconsistency in the point can show-up as a angled hole. (these were about the only drill bits we sent out for sharpening)
In your case, if there is excess material on the diameter (which it sounds like) you could drill the hole then countersink both ends and put the bar on centers in a lathe and cut the OD concentric to the holes. Also, you would have to affix another vertical bar on the angle plate to locate the bar. When staring the hole I would recommend using one of those piloted drill bits like a Dewalt pilot point drill. Although I never tried it when I worked in the field, I’m sure those pilot points would be much better for deep hole drilling because they eliminate the point of the drill sliding around to “get a bite” and the result is a very precise hole with a lot lower drilling energy requirement.
Sorry for rambling, but its early and I’m up!

Mark

 

It has been my experience that when drilling those deep holes, you really need to "feel" how things are going: chip exhaustion, binding, cutting and it will be hard to feel anything in a lathe or especially with a 90* head. A lighter-weight drill press provides the best feel. In the gun drill operations I have seen; the part is rotated (like a lathe) and they use a bit with holes thru the length to pressure feed sulpherized oil. When the hole gets deep chip binding/bit breaking are the common enemies.

Mark

 

You sure are getting your money's worth out of that machine, aren't you.

 

Very accommodating!
The main problem we had with drilling those deep holes was with chips binding-up. If you take your time & keep the chips clear you should be fine.
The drill bit looks new so that should help too.
Looks like you are running it dry? no oil or coolant?

Please keep us posted.

Mark

 

Oh your a Stooge alright.