Can you identify this diff? | FerrariChat

Can you identify this diff?

Discussion in 'Boxers/TR/M' started by uzz32soarer, Sep 23, 2012.

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  1. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

    Sep 9, 2006
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    Robert Hayden
    #1 uzz32soarer, Sep 23, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  2. Mr.Chairman

    Mr.Chairman F1 Rookie

    Mar 21, 2008
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    How was the condition of the bearing and the seal? Were the bearings leaking? What do you think of this possible scenario. Maybe the bearings and seal are wearing from age, loosing lubrication, then binding/wearing creating bearing play which then transfers to the diff creating stress from movement in the bearing, then something gives way (diff weld). Just something I was thinking about. Any input or opinions are greatly appreciated.

    R
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
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    Isn't an uncracked weld a good weld? ;)

    "...yet the other end bolts appear to be different." -- different from other bolts in the same assembly, or bolts in other diffs, or ? Any chance that you can post a clearer picture of the head markings in question?
     
  4. ozziindaus

    ozziindaus F1 Veteran

    Aug 16, 2012
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    I'm sure this has been asked many times before but can the diff be changed without an engine out?
     
  5. deangpsx8

    deangpsx8 Formula Junior

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    Yes mine was. Not an easy job though.
     
  6. willrace

    willrace Three Time F1 World Champ
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    They are, until they're not.

    Glad we have some better<coughBILLETcough> options now.
     
  7. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    It looks like the weld was machined for clearance. I don't think you can tell much about the weld by looking. Something else is going on like not being stress relieved or something else.





    Ago
     
  8. ozziindaus

    ozziindaus F1 Veteran

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    Depends on the grade. If it's 304 which is very common, it has excellent machinability and weldability but cannot be heat treated. It's also a relativity expensive grade but that is negligible in this application.

    http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=965

    There are not many materials that have all the properties a diff casing requires.

    Machinability
    Corrosive resistance
    Hardness
    Weldability
    Yield strength

    I've had better luck with the 400 series, especially a modified 430F (low Sulfur). Machines and welds great. 410's are also easy to heat treat and machine relatively well.

    http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=996
    http://www.azom.com/article.aspx?ArticleID=970
     
  9. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Why use stainless steel? I would of guessed 4340. Then normalized after welding.


    Ago
     
  10. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

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    The diff came out of a 512BBi with 4500 miles on the clock.

    To my eye it doesn't appear to be the factory diff so I'm wondering if any of you guys have seen a diff that looks like this or can you compare it to your own 512's?
     
  11. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    Hi Rob, did you compare it with a "newer" TR one ?

    In fact anybody can make a diff housing if appropriate measurement was done ...

    I would not place that diff back, that's for shure ...

    How did you come by this one if I may ask ... ?
     
  12. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

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    Belongs to a friend of mine who has had it removed from his car.

    He's pretty sure the mileage on his car is accurate at 4500 UK Miles but this diff doesn't look to be standard in a 512BBi, so I'm asking if any of you guys have seen one like it before.
     
  13. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

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    Rob,
    That diff looks pretty much the same as the one I pulled from my car. The circle cutout in the diff housing is like the original diffs up to the M diff which had a square cutout. The small bolt heads look correct and the welded seam area is machined after welding to ensure it does not interfere with the diff housing.
     
  14. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

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    #14 testamon, Sep 24, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  15. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #15 Melvok, Sep 25, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    " The circle cutout in the diff housing is like the original diffs up to the M diff which had a square cutout. "

    You mean this (not welded) oem version Mike ... it is late 1994.

    If you look at the remains of my 1992 512TR diff the welds were actually pritty nice and flat/smooth ..... but what if the don't hold ...

    I showed it all to 2 TR drivers ... explaining what may also be coming to them in future .... they were deeply impressed ...
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  16. testamon

    testamon Formula Junior

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    Yes Mel the top one in your photo is the M diff and my reference to square cutout was incorrect as it is at the weld end and not the bolt head end where I think it is still a round cutout. Thanks for the pictures Mel.
     
  17. Melvok

    Melvok F1 World Champ
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    #17 Melvok, Sep 25, 2012
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
  18. ago car nut

    ago car nut F1 Veteran
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    Mel,
    How thick is the metal where the weld broke? I would surmise that this was an automatic weld. Maybe there wasn't enough weld penetration and they machined away too much for clearance. It could be that there was changes in the weld procedure and they didn't address it correctly.


    Ago
     
  19. Newman

    Newman F1 World Champ
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    It an original diff, the welds vary from unit to unit and tend to get lighter with the new cars as power and weight go up.
     
  20. uzz32soarer

    uzz32soarer F1 Rookie

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    Thanks Paul.
     
  21. 335s

    335s Formula Junior

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    IMO....the bearing is spinning on the snout to which it has a press fittment...the shoulder under the bearing CLEARLY shows-along whith obvious and visible rotational stryations on the snub axle itself-indicates to me that the bearing was "spinning on the snub", which causes things, and will result in....HEAT, and slop within the preload and side cover shim clearance spec numbers, ALL resulting in a "hammering" of the dome with the oft spoken weld, as each time the driveline is loaded(each time you release the clutch for example), the "hammering" combined with the heat generated from spinning, will weaken ANY weld in an environment as hostile as the one LSD resides.....
    IMO....it looks JUST like aq worn out-but un fractured-365GTB/4 LSD snout, althought the peculiarities of that repair are slightly different-the cover-that here, but indicators are remarkably similar....remarkably....
     

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