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Can't get cam drive pulley ring nut loose

Discussion in '308/328' started by bl10, Jul 30, 2020 at 10:57 AM.

  1. bl10

    bl10 Karting

    Jun 8, 2011
    57
    I'm having difficulty removing one of the cam drive pulley ring nut. My impact wrench won't budge it. At a loss as to why this thing is so tight. Any ideas or secrets. I'm afraid I'm going have to cut it off.

    Thanks

    Barry
     
  2. Alex308qv

    Alex308qv Karting

    Jul 1, 2016
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    Alex
    Presuming you’ve let PB Blaster soak (and soak and soak) in for a long time and tried heat?
     
  3. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie

    Aug 7, 2012
    2,643
    Tallahassee, FL
    What impact tool are you using specifically?
     
  4. bl10

    bl10 Karting

    Jun 8, 2011
    57
    Put PB blaster on it this morning so I'll let it soak although I'm dubious it will make much difference as there doesn't appear to be any rust or corrosion.
    Haven't tried heat yes and am a little afraid of to much. I have a good heat gun and map touch both of which will get it red hot.
    Impact gun is ing-rand electric. (old) but spun harmonic balancer bolt out no problem and have never had a bolt or nut I couldn't get off with it. .
    Think I'll probably try heat and see what happens.

    Just out of curiosity what internal damage could be done with the impact gun?

    Thanks
    Barry
     
  5. Imatk

    Imatk Rookie

    May 6, 2007
    16
    I've had very good luck with SeaFoam deep creep. Used Blaster for years and someone put me on to SeaFoam and I haven't looked back.
     
  6. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    Nov 29, 2001
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    I have never had anything stand in the way of my air powered impact 1/2 wrench from Ingersol Rand. I cannot say about the electric one though. In a bind, you can use a dremmel tool to cut a slit along the edge to ease the pressure.
     
  7. bl10

    bl10 Karting

    Jun 8, 2011
    57
    I'll try heat in the morning. I'm a little afraid of leaving the impact gun on two long. It may break something.

    Barry
     
  8. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
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    They are not reverse threads are they?
     
  9. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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    No, there is no reason for that evilness.
     
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  10. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    Apr 1, 2004
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    I have had to split one or two over the yrs. Don't have the tq spec on hand, but they are tq'd on pretty good. Very fine threads, so careful on cutting them off. cross threading new ones is also easy.
     
  11. thorn

    thorn F1 Rookie

    Aug 7, 2012
    2,643
    Tallahassee, FL
    Thus my question... my IR gun even rips crank bolts off like melted butter.
     
  12. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    Feb 17, 2006
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    Although it is probably why you are in there to start with, if you heat it you will also heat the seal behind it and need to replace it. If you heat it more you will cook the sealed bearing's seals and grease and need to replace that also. But I suppose there's no reason to pull that nut off unless that's your plan to start with.

    But if you heat it even more you will start to heat the inner bearing. It isn't sealed and it doesn't have grease. I think that's safe-ish, there's a lot of heat sink back there. But it is NOT easy to replace.
     
  13. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    Nov 3, 2003
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    I can't imagine anyone trying to reuse this nut, so no need to try to save it.

    Simply cut it off with a Dremel wheel, move on with your work, and replace with a new one upon reassembly.

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    Obviously, take great care not to nick the threaded shaft.
     
  14. yelcab

    yelcab F1 World Champ
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  15. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    Say what ???

    Superformance UK has the standard nut at 4.86 Sterling, or else a superior bespoke hex version which uses standard sockets to install / remove at 9.95 Sterling.

    Ricambi has the standard nuts at $6.17 USD.

    All pricing verified on their respective websites 10 minutes ago.

    So, again, don't overthink this. Just cut it off and move on!
     
  16. smg2

    smg2 F1 World Champ
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    That's crazy! Who charges that much?
    I also wouldn't reuse that nut, tq spec most definitely deforms it.
     
  17. st@ven

    st@ven F1 Rookie
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    Maybe a stupid question but why do you want to take it off

    I never once did
     
  18. dave80gtsi

    dave80gtsi Formula 3
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    I obviously can't speak for the OP. but most likely in order to be able to replace that bearing behind.
     
  19. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    And replacing that bearing before it fails is a very good idea.

    For the cars that have the original outboard sealed bearing, that grease is about 40 years old. Make your own decision from there.
     
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  20. 2dinos

    2dinos Formula 3

    Jan 13, 2007
    2,422
    The seal as well after many years starts to leak?
     
  21. Brian Harper

    Brian Harper F1 Rookie
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    Depends on the version. The old version, yes, the seal might leak and needs replacing. That bearing is inboard and lives in lovely engine oil and so will last many years. But it is also overloaded because the design puts too much stress on it, so not as many miles before it gets unhappy.

    The new version puts the seal inboard and then uses a sealed bearing. So if that seal leaks it is still blocked by the bearing seals, at least for a little while - minutes or years? I don't know. The sealed outboard bearing is under much less stress and lasts many miles. But it has its own grease and grease doesn't last forever. So lots of miles but not so many years. At this point all the original grease is very old. BUT as a bonus if the seal behind leaks it eventually makes its way through the bearing seals and washes out the grease. Maybe the engine oil is a better lubricant than old grease but it's a total loss oiling system at that point. My bearing failed and seal was leaking but I don't know which came first.
     
  22. derekw

    derekw Formula 3

    Sep 7, 2010
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    Derek W
    Heat the nut, you won’t need much, get the impact onto it quickly while it’s hot.
     

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