Car shutting off while driving | FerrariChat

Car shutting off while driving

Discussion in '308/328' started by gt1nick, Jun 18, 2010.

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  1. gt1nick

    gt1nick Karting

    Jan 25, 2010
    193
    DCA/PBI
    Full Name:
    Nick
    Quick background:

    78 GTS with electromotive ignition.

    Like the title says: I'm driving along and the engine will shut off. All accessories work after the engine has shut down (lights, hazards, wipers, radio, etc...). I'm able to start the car after turning it off for about 30-90 seconds.

    Any suggestions?
     
  2. Darolls

    Darolls F1 Veteran
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    Jul 2, 2003
    7,782
    Full Name:
    Sparky
    You may have a bad relay. Have you checked them out?
     
  3. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    BANNED Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,930
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    #3 Steve Magnusson, Jun 19, 2010
    Last edited: Jun 19, 2010
    It can always just be a Gremlin inside your added electronics or new connections ;), but one thing to check (if you haven't already made an update or preventative repair) is the condition of the fuse block near the top of fuses #1 and #2 and see if the plastic has melted/defromed/darkened (if you are drawing +12V power to run the EM unit via the stock path). The (stock) food chain is:

    +12V battery -to- ignition switch -to- top of fuse #2 (on the A, light blue, wire) -to- the top of fuse #1 (via the rivets and plate on the backside of the fuse block) -to- the G, yellow, wire leaving the top of fuse #1 -to- which goes to run the ignition system.

    (Your report that everything else works OK is a sign that it is not a problem further up in the +12V power distribution network.)

    By adding a more powerful ignition system (and if you are still using the yellow wire to power the EM unit), you have increased the current flowing in this path. A preventative repair would be to add (e.g., solder) a better, high-current electrical connection between the top of fuse #2 and fuse #1 (besides the mechanical-only rivets + plate) to better ensure a good electrical connection between the A, light blue, wire and the G, yellow, wire. IMO, all aftermarket ignition systems, installed on carbed 308s, should include this step in the instructions ;).
     
  4. gt1nick

    gt1nick Karting

    Jan 25, 2010
    193
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    Nick
    I haven't had time to check the fuse block yet, the problem happend late at night and didn't feel like diving into the the problem at 2 am. Does it make any difference if I have a birdman fuse block?
     
  5. Steve Magnusson

    Steve Magnusson Two Time F1 World Champ
    BANNED Lifetime Rossa

    Jan 11, 2001
    26,930
    30°30'40" N 97°35'41" W (Texas)
    Full Name:
    Steve Magnusson
    Yes, that's an "update" (so more likely something in your EM system), but never hurts to check/inspect (and you don't have to get greasy ;)).
     
  6. lightning

    lightning Formula Junior

    Apr 19, 2010
    551
    Stockport
    Full Name:
    Martin Oliver
    That fault sounds like electronics to me. Engine management unit.
     
  7. gt1nick

    gt1nick Karting

    Jan 25, 2010
    193
    DCA/PBI
    Full Name:
    Nick
    The fuses all look to be in good shape. Has my electonic brain gone brain dead?
     
  8. ClydeM

    ClydeM F1 World Champ
    Owner Rossa Subscribed

    Nov 4, 2003
    11,971
    Wayne, NJ
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    Clyde E. McMurdy
    Happened to me twice. Once I had to get towed home & once in SOHO NYC - waited 2 min on the shoulder (embarassing :$) and then it fired right back up. The fuse block/connectors were melting from resistance.
     

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