Cars been sitting for a year. Now what?

Don't start it at all. Flat bed it to your tech and have him put a new set of timing belts and tensioner bearings, oil change, drain the gas and put fresh fuel in the tank, replace ALL filters, change coolant,replace the brake fluid, check the operation of ALL braking components, rotors are more then likely rusty and will need a light skim on the lathe, replace brake pads, change gearbox oil.

Before he turns the key, squrt about a tea spoon of oil in the cylinders, disconnect ignition coil modules, and pull the fuel pump relay. Spin the engine over with the starter with the plugs out of the enigne until the red oil pressure light goes out. Then hook everything up and start the car

 

Awesome detail, thanks.

Some questions
1. Why should he replace the brake pads? Won't the rust/surface stuff go away in a couple of applications? Can't you quickly go over the pads with a sander?

2. Why replace the timing belt? Wouldn't an adjustment and tension check/thorough visual inspection be enough?

3. I can understand the oil filter and fuel filter, but why replace the air filter? Admittedly, it's a cheap item, so it's no big deal--just curious why you think the air filter should also be replaced.

4. Why replace the transmission oil?? Isn't that a really heavy weight oil and not supposed to deteriorate for several years, with much thermal cycling and heavy mechanical thrashing?

5. If it cranks, but does not start, what do you suggest? I have seen this happen on several cars that have sat around. The fuel is pumping, the plugs are firing, the new battery can crank the starter but the cars just won't start. I have never been able to stick around long enough to find out what the fix is, so I am hoping you can tell me.

Thanks!

 

Brake pads can "dry" out and become brittle and crack..espeacialy when sitting out side and haveing had no brake applications in a long time, it very cheao insurance. Also they can become "hard" and destroy expensive brake rotors in a few hundred miles.

The tming belts should be replaced..due to the fact that they are rubber, and they can get memory when sitting in the same spot for along time. They will satrt to fall apart. The tensioners after being exposed to the elements will not be up to the challenge of high rpm driving.

Airfilter..paper..paper over time when it gets damp will start to fall apart,,best to replace it.

Transmission oil...same as motor oil..basicly for condensation and just to get her back up to sunff..when was the last time it was chnaged to begin with?

If she cramks but won't start with air and spark..dive into the basic's..compression, timing, fuel pressure, spark strength, fuses/panel condition..wiring condition etc..

 

I think his suggestions were just being thorough. As you note, not all things MUST be done, but while you are doing it, why not be on the safe side?

One big one, IMHO, is draining the fuel system. Unless you put Sta-bil or another gasoline stabilizer into the fuel system, chances are you've got varnish in the tank and fuel lines. If you try to start the car, you will gum up the pump, injectors, fuel filter, etc. The tank should be drained and the fuel lines flushed out to avoid a problem. Also a good idea to change the oil and filter if it's been sitting that long. Also smart to bleed the brakes as well. If the pads are in good shape, you probably don't need to change them or have the rotors cut, unless they are badly pitted or heavily rusted.

Something else to consider -- if it's been sitting that long, you may have flat spots on the tires. Don't be surprised if you find that you have a vibration or thumping that wasn't there before. Drive it a little bit and see if it goes away. If not, you may be looking at some new tires. Good idea to check the sidewalls for cracking, especially if they were not new anyway.

Excellent suggestion was made about pre-oiling the cylinders and cranking it over without starting it to build oil pressure first.

In the future, don't leave it sitting so long. If you're not going to be driving it, give it to me!! I'll make sure it gets exercised regularly! ;-)

 

How long can a car sit before having to perform these maneuvers? If my car is trapped in the garage for 4 or 5 months in the winter, what am I looking at?
Chris

 

Check the air pressure in the tires, maybe change the oil if it's been a while. Other than that, run it for a few minutes before you drive off to make sure you don't have any fuel leaks.

If your timing belt has less than 2000 miles on it, and it's 3 years old I personally wouldn't worry about it. I've pulled off a year old timing belt with 5k miles on it and it still looked new. I think this is rediculous. If your car doesn't start, clean the injectors. That usually the case if a car has been sitting a while. The fuel will gum up. Does your car have a full tank of fuel? If so you should be fine.

 

I wouldn't do anything but drive it. Fluids are not going to go bad just sitting there, and changing the belt after 2000 miles? That's just silly!

 

You must rebuild Ferrari engines for a living. As mentioned, rubber gets a "set" when it doesn't move. It will be stiff and have lumps in it and I wouldn't trust the tensioners to take care of it as THEY will be suspect too. If ever a timing belt was to skip a tooth, it would be after sitting a long time and then driven hard.

Ken

 

Just put some fresh gas in it and crank it up. If it won't start after setting idle for only a few months without a major overhaul of new belts, new oil, new trans fluid, new brakes pads, etc, etc, etc, to the point of absurdity....
then what's the point of owning the thing? Would you want to own a suit that required a complete overhaul by a tailor every time that you wanted to wear it? Not likely. I've got a 1980 Corvette that has gone for a year or more between starts and all it takes is fresh gas and a battery and then it's running fine. Why does a Ferrari require a complete restoration assault team if it sits idle for more than 3 months?

 

It was driven 2 miles in a year. And he didn't say the belts were new to begin with! Belts deteriorate with age; especially when they sit in one position for a long time. Last I checked Vettes didn't rev to 8000 RPMs.

Ken

 

The big thing to worry about with the car sitting is the gas. It does go bad. When I put the Jaguars up over the winter (I don't do it with the Ferrari because I keep it active when the weather permits), I add gas stabilizer and top up the tank with fresh. In the spring, no problems. Four or 5 months might be okay, but if the car has sat for a year with the same gas in the tank, I'd be concerned. Also, if it is going to be sitting around, it is a good idea to change the oil before you put it up for the winter to get rid of all of the acids. And change the anti-freeze before layup as well if it hasn't been done in a while to protect against corrosion. Doesn't hurt to pour a little oil into each cylinder to protect the bore and the rings. Before spring startup, I always check the hoses, belts, air filter boxes (mice like to nest in there), etc. to make sure everything is okay before startup. Then crank it with ignition disconnected to build up oil pressure before firing it up. Just worthwhile precautions.

 

The explanations for why he recommended the different items have all been provided. Did you not read them? Do you not agree with them? They all made sense to me.

 

there is no stronger urge for a 'specialist' when asked for his opinion, be it your plumber or your mechanic, to draw in his breath, give a couple of tuts and then spread doom and gloom.

(sorry, must be getting jaded in my old age )

My .02, just drive it carefully the first time..

 

No, I don't really agree with them. Forget for a moment that it's a Ferrari. Then what do you have? A V8 internal combustion engine in a car with disc brakes. There are only about 10 million of those kind of cars in existance. And many of them have aluminum engine blocks like the Ferrari. And none of them need a complete overhaul just because they haven't been driven in a year. The brake pads on my Corvette will burnish the rust off the rotors within a few applications of the brake pedal. Replacing the oil and trans fluid? Why? Since it hasn't been driven any, why does it need new oil and trans fluid? There are military surplus parts pack in oil since WWII in remote warehouses, and they don't change THAT oil every year! (And don't get wise and say that today's oils are detergent oil. Big deal.) About the only thing that can hurt the oil is IF some moisture has condensed in the crank case. But that's why you fire up the engine and run it until the engine is TOTALLY warmed up so that the water vapor boils away from the engine oil.
And since you said that the timing belt only has 2000 miles on it, why should it fall apart? Once again, don't blast the Corvette because it has a timing chain, look at all the ZILLIONS of cars out there today that have timing BELTS. They don't require an overhaul after they sit for a year.
About the only thing that can REALLY hurt an idle car is indeed the gas, or more importantly, the LACK of gas in the tank. Moisture can condense inside an empty tank and cause the tank to rust. Most gas tanks are stamped out of thin metal, so it doesn't take too long for moisture to rust out a tank. I had to have the tank repaired in my 1980 International Scout because it rusted out. And my 1980 Corvette will probably be next.

 

A little common sense like this goes a long way. Guys need to check your fear factor.

 

change the oil on the thing check the fluids and drive it.

before I bought
my 328 it sat for about 2 1/2 years.... I purchased the car, tech changed all the fluids, and I drove it.

 

Wow, look at that expensive list of items up there. Not to say they're not necessary, but some look like overkill -- particularly the belts and tensioners. Of course, it's an expensive mistake if you guess wrong.

My opinion: put some clean gas and fuel injector cleaner in it, check the oil level and check the oil to make sure it's not full of water, and fire it up. Watch your oil pressures and temps while it is idling. Let it come up to temp and make sure your fans kick on at 195 or so.

Then drive it, increasing revs as you're comfortable. Keep an eye out for leaks and such. Basically, if it was a solid car when it was parked, it should be fine.

Sheesh. My brother bought a 280ZX yesterday that has been sitting for several years. That sucker fired right over and idled great, runs great.

Use your best judgement, but the

 

If it was my $40,000 car I'd

Change the oil & filter, change the timing belts (they're over halfway through their (US) spec life (they're over the Euro spec which is 2 years), & have a very good look at the tensioners and maybe change them depending on how old they are.

Why risk a $3-$5000 engine rebuild for the sake of a few $100 or work which pretty much needs doing anyway?

I might think about the trans oil depending on how old it is.

For the brakes I would just drive the car to start with but probably change the brake fluid fairly shortly because it's probably overdue anyway. If they are sticky or just not working right then you can investigate further & remedy as necessary.

Some oil down the plug holes before cranking it would be a good idea too. I'd think about draining the gas out of it as well depending on how full the tank is (the fuller the better). The fuel distribution units are v expensive to rebuild if they get gummed up. New gas & a bottle of fuel injection cleaner would be a good idea. A new fuel filter would be sensible & if you are going that far you might as well do the air filter.

Then I'd drive it very carefully for the first 100 miles or so & be prepared for things like camshaft oil seals to leak.

....and I'd probably do most of that on a $4000 car with the exception of the belts - unless it was a VW 1.8T in which case I'd probably do the belt.

Most of the above is just annual maintenance anyway with a few extra bits tacked on because its been standing so long & because its a $40,000 Ferrari.

I.

 

Start it up and drive it. 10-12 months is nothing. If it were 3-4 years I would start doing other things but not for the short time its been sitting.

 

Ummm... you are already talking about $3-5000 of maintenance in the things you listed.

Personally, I'd put a new battery in, check the oil, fire it up, let it idle for a couple of minutes and then drive off gently. Once it's thoroughly warmed up, I'd drive it a bit harder and if it seems fine after a while I wouldn't worry about it.

BTW, he said the timing belts were new three years ago. I'd change them when they get to be five years old, which is probably overkill but makes me feel better.

 

1 year isn't much and you started it 4 months ago. Fresh gas and start it right up. The rest of the list really is overkill IMHO.

Forza,
Kevin

 

2 years for timing belts? I guess people like to waste good money. It seems that the belt interval seems to get shorter for these cars as they get older. If you pulled off belts and they were two years old, they'd probably look new. You can go 5 years on belts. And you should be able to go 50k miles as well.

 

I'm with you. Brake pads, timing belts, after just a year? C'mon! That's overkill. Just start it up and drive it down to the mechanic for a good checkup.

 

New 3 years ago..left standing for one...Do an experiment for me. Get an old timing belt..put it around a dowel about the same diameter of the cam pully, the tention the belt..let it sit outside and for a year..and then tell me you would trust it on a car. Do the same with the tensioner bearings.

These are steps I would take in my shop..not because it is pulling money out of somebodys pocket..but because of LIABILITY!!!. If the car comes in and I say everything is ok..and it goes an blows up or the guy wraps it around a pole because his brake pads have fallen apart..whos the guy that is going to be sued? You got it... yours truly.

A car like a Ferrari that cost big dough to repair, a few extra steps I think are in order..would you not agree?