yes.. throw it in the bin... its useless crap OK let me get you the EXACT data you need. be right back..
I'm serious They are useless and will always fail. I delete them and re-program the EMS to use cat estimation modelling (which is exactly what Ferrari eventually did post 2008 on the F430. Image Unavailable, Please Login Ok, this will allow you to verify the voltage coming out of the ECU matches the temperature calibration table programmed into the Engine Management Software. It uses these exact values as a lookup from the Analog to Digital voltage conversion going on inside the Microcontroller. With the wiring diagram, a 12V power source and a multimeter you can test these are working accurately. Just extend the wiring loom and leave it attached to the car then verify the temperature with the approximate temperature reading (from diagnostic tool) for the other bank's cat ecu. If they vary wildly from the other bank you have an issue with the cat ecu. If you need wiring let me know...
The minimum temp before trigger a CEL is : 220 Grad C (under temperature) The maximum temp before triggering a CEL is > 1150 Grad C (maximum threshold exceeded) And the cats need to be > 510 Grad C before the system starts monitoring. This is around 1.5V more or less.. .
If you don't go the software upgrade route that is a great alternative to the factory rubbish. Did you develop these yourself?
I second NEVER buying the OEM computers to replace these. I replaced both of mine with the now-unavailable Gothspeed units. Couldn't be happier. Glad Technistrada is making reliable replacements. The Vescovini units are overpriced garbage.
Anyone here who has used these units. I'll call them tomorrow, there across the pond from me. Auckland N. Zealand Thanks for your input lads.
Yes, connect a rheostat to the input side of the ECU and apply power and ground to the ECU on the output side of the ECU. While varying the rheostat you should get a voltage change measured by a DMM on the signal wire. If successful, apply heat to the ECU with a heat gun to see if the ECU breaks down. Make sure you have a good power source to the ECU and a good ground in the vehicle. Also you can check the probe from the Cat with the ohm side of the DMM as the engine warms up, should see a change in the ohm measurement. The ECU just changes the ohm reading to a voltage reading so the engine computer can read it.
I suggest changing the thermocouple, they get old and not reliable. One of mine showed continuity when cold and everything was ok but when engine was warm - no continuity and slow down alarm on passenger bank. You could even move thermocouple from one side to the other if fault on one bank for testing purposes. Sent from my iPhone using FerrariChat.com mobile app
The Technistrada units have been around for a few years with no reports of problems (as far as I am aware). I've been running them on my car for quite some time now, but because of COVID lockdowns and other issues, I haven't done much driving to give them a thorough test. They are smaller and much lighter than the originals (if you're interested in weightsaving )
I finalised the design mid 2019 Trev, along with bypasses for the 355 crowd after a few years of tinkering on my cars (and credit to Ian for the 355 bypass housing solution idea). Using a modern thermocouple amp IC specifically made for exhaust and oven temp measurement as opposed to the awful discreet component effort Ferrari/Vescovini came up with.
They amplify/convert the signals from the catalytic converters' temperature sensors (thermocouples) into data useful to the engine management system (Motronic ECUs). An Motronic ECU will respond to excessively high cat temperatures by turning on the SLOW DOWN light and, if things get too bad, shut down the engine bank. The original Ferrari ones don't like heat/moisture and don't last too long.
