Don't install yourself, let your tech do it. You will save no money as the physical install time is minutes and risk damage. The tech needs to read data from the original TCU and transfer it across as well as set- up the new TCU for gear position, PIS etc.
If you install it yourself it will not function properly. You need to dial in the clutch thickness figure with an sd machine...
+1 Further to this, the independent I took my car to to fit the TCU only had the hand held SD. It turns out that the handheld SD does not have the full functionality of the PC linked version, therefore he was not actually able to change the clutch closed position value in the new TCU. I had to drive it around with the incorrect value for a week or so, until I got time with my local Ferrari dealer who could actually could input the value from the original TCU. It drove like crap with the wrong clutch closed position value.
In that case, it is a reflashed TCU which contains also the parameters of the CS donor. I still have to see a car on which it does not work properly as it is, from out of the box. Don't get me wrong, a fine tuning with a SD is the way to go, but a DIY installation is possible and the car should work pretty well.
interesting... what were the symptoms you were experiencing ? My tech installed mine with only the handheld SD.
Well, I now own a Ferrari. The difference in shifting is remarkable, especially higher gears/revs. Well done, Eric!
From memory the clutch closed position value from my original TCU was 15.1mm. The value in the CS TCU was 18mm. This difference resulted in what I can only explain as a "grabbing" sensation when shifting gears. Being able to set it to 15.1mm made it much better.
Ok, I had the CS TCU installed last Friday and I can honestly say the shifting has improved considerably. The shifts are now much quicker, decisive, and considerably smoother the higher the revs. Both up and down shifting was affected. One thing that did occur is take-off in first takes place at higher revs. It used to start moving at about 1200-1500 rpm, now the car starts moving at anywhere from 2500 to 3000 rpm's. the PIS was at 4.81 on the old TCU. It was changed to 5.04 after the mechanics test drive to reduce the slippage in first, but the opposite took place. Is this common? Any thoughts on what the PIS setting should be on a CS TCU? Should it be any different than setting a 2002 Modena TCU? The tech used a Leonardo system. Thanks.
Clutch should engage just off idle. Needs setting up by someone who knows. Cheap at Main dealer. Then woo hoo best mod for 360.
Tech went the wrong way. Lower number equals quicker take up. Many Stradales have PIS set as low as 3.9.
My Strad does take what I consider to be a long start button time. When I bought the car the prev owner actually noted "go through start procedure then hold button UNTIL it starts" I have gotten quite use to it.
Hey Gents, I was reading through this, and there is a lot of great information. Just to clarify, You can take factory CS TCU, and place it in your standard 360 completely replacing the TCU with the CS version. You then have to get it reprogramed for your car at a dealership or somewhere with an SD tool to match the previous settings to your car? OR You take the physical 'chip' out of the CS TCU and replace it into your non - CS TCU (provided the hardware is compatible), thus eliminating the need to have it 'reprogrammed' to match your car. Correct? Or am I missing something?
Michael, excellent catch on my clutch slip problem. You were correct, the tech went the wrong way when he adjusted the PIS setting. I went back, and the tech followed the PIS set up procedure from scratch. We ended up with a PIS setting of 4.51 just one notch above where the car would start to move while standing still in first gear. The shifting is now awesome and very smooth and decisive in all gears, up and down shifting. While there I also had the oil changed and now I occasionally get a slowdown light which only lasts for a few minutes before it goes away. No hard ODBII codes. Anyone? Any thoughts? Here is a summary: Before any work, no slowdown light After an oil change and the new CS TCU... Occasional slowdown light (twice in 350 miles) Comments? Thanks
You are welcome. Glad to be of service. Your slow down light could just be coincidence. You never know! That is normally associated to cat temp sensors FWIW.
Thank you. Without a code in the ODBII, any way to figure out what side it is. I'll check to make sure the wiring is tight to start. They did pull the pan to do the oil change.
Hello I have been reading this forum before purchasing a 360. It is a delight so see so many passionate people and information that is being shared. This is my first Ferrari let the fun begin. My 2001 360 has the first tcu which form what i have read is non programmable. The tcu works but is slow in changing gears.
Correct. If you want better shifts then get a later model TCU or better still get a CS TCU from either Ricambi (new) or from Eric355 who sells reprogrammed CS TCUs (I have one of his). Alan
I agree with Alan. I recently upgraded my 2000 360F1 with a factory new CS TCU. Makes a ton of difference in the agressiveness of this shifts and the throttle blips on downshifting sound fantastic. I found my CS TCU through FerParts in California.
Before I upgrade to the CS TCU I'm just curious whether there are any disadvantages to the change? Never driven a CS - is it any rougher starting in 1st or driving in stop-and-go traffic?
I have a couple of reflashed CS TCUs waiting for cars ... PM me for details. Image Unavailable, Please Login
best mod I ever did to my 360! Absolutely amazing! Transforms the whole car! Highly recommended but not cheap!
I upgraded my 360 Modena with the CS TCU. Some of you have made statements that you have to turn the key to start and hold it for a while ... maybe 2 or 3 seconds ... before the starter motor will turn over. If you notice when you get in the car and turn on the ignition, the F1 pump starts to run building pressure. Before the CS TCU in my Modena, this happened as soon as I opened the driver door. Now, when I open the door, the pump runs for a short time and then after turning on the ignition key, the pump runs to complete the pressure build-up. On my car, the F1 light illuminates as soon as I turn on the ignition ... but goes out after the pump builds pressure. It is not that you have to hold the start button for a long time or turn the ignition key to start and hold to get the car to start. All you have to do is turn on the ignition and wait until the F1 pump builds pressure. Then it will start as soon as you turn key or press the button. All you need is a bit of patience. For me, I like to turn on the ignition and wait until all the lights go out and the display indicates all is in readiness. I verify the F1 light is not illuminated and if you listen for it, the F1 pump stops running. I guess this takes about 7 to 10 seconds or so. Turn the key and it starts right up. Steve
