changed my oil and a foglight using my new quickjack

Yup, great tool. I also chose 12v, as I wanted complete portability. I love mine!

 

Very cool, Neil. Smart using the jack stands for extra saftey.

 

Did you have any trouble fitting the rubber blocks under the door sills? Those rubber blocks seem to add 50% to the height of the lowered jack.

 

Always use jack stands

 

Agreed. Very smart. Always assume that a hydraulic seal, hydraulic line or a fitting could give at any second. The 2 minutes max that it takes to set up the jack stands properly is just cheap insurance.

 

Will this raise the car high enough to perform engine out procedure? I will be doing the timing belt in my 348 in the near future and would be awesome if I could use this to make the job easier.

 

How much clearance is needed for these? Is it pretty low profile?

 

That's basically what I do. Keeps the jack stands out of the way but provides an extra measure of safety in the event that the structure of the Quickjack fails.

 

Perfect.

 

Agree

 

The latter. I just want something there in case the lift structure fails.

I have an early 3500 model so I had to make a platform to extend it to reach both jacking points. I usually place the stands under the ends of the extension.
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Mike, why are the front wheels like double the height off the ground compared to the rear?

 

Looks like more suspension droop rear than front. My car (e36 m3 sedan) looks like this when I jack it up in the air too. Here's another example from google images:

 

Good question, Dave. There's a lot more suspension droop in the rear than the front because of the coilover struts in the front-- the rear rires are partially tucked under the fender lips when the car as at rest, so what you see there is a fair amount of droop in the rear. But even so, the back of the car still looks to be lower than the front, which I cannot explain. It's on the factory lifting points and the weight distribution is close to 50/50, but it could be that there's more arse hanging out than front. I'll have to try to remember to cogitate over that the next time I raise that car.

 

So this is how New age criminals steal rims? haha

 

I just tried my new Quickjack 5000SLX and didn't realise how much the larger rubber pads would compress. When the rubber compressed, the metal frame of the jack came in contact with the underbody panels. I hope they survive. I wouldn't recommend using the jack without the hockey pucks ... although how you get them to go under the car, I don't know... I think my rear tyres are taller than standard, and I barely got the larger provided pads to go under the car. Maybe my springs are starting to sag? Next time, I may have to drive the car onto a small ramp of some description before putting the jacks underneath.

About storing the jacks under the car... I would be very careful when positioning the car over them. The metal frame of the jack is probably high enough to contact the wheel rims. Make sure you are dead centre.

I recommend reading the manual from end to end. It's not quite "plug and play". You need a variety of tools. All the nuts and bolts seemed to be non-metric, so you either need a full set of non-metric spanners or a few adjustable spanners. Also, you'll need a footpump to charge the cylinders, a pressure gauge (if the pump doesn't have one), allen keys and some automatic transmission fluid.

The YouTube videos can be of some help, but one video shows something which should not be done. i.e raising the jacks to full height without a load. The manual expressly forbids this.

According to the manual, the Quickjack should not raised if the car is already in contact with rubber blocks. You do need some space between the blocks and the car prior to lifting. This is pretty hard to do when the car is so low. I asked the distributor about it and he said as long as there is a gap it will be ok, but I don't know how 0mm is not ok, but 1mm is ok.

I bought the larger jack because I wasn't sure if the unequal load on the jacking points would be an issue (the Ferrari is tail heavy with respect to the jacking points). Perhaps because the hydraulic ram is pushing diagonally, the forces on the jack may be distributed better and it may not be an issue (?).

I thought it wouldn't matter which direction the jacks were facing. For some reason, I had difficulties having the yellow sticker end at the front of the car. I had to turn them around and put them at the rear. i.e. the pump goes at the front of the car. Also, make sure you put the safety bars on the outboard sides (you don't want to stick your hand through the frame to get to them... a little risky). It also makes it harder to see if the bars are in the right position.

I don't know why, but the hydraulic rams don't seem to hold their air charge for long. I had to top them up each day. The pressure must be equal in both rams or the two jacks will lift at different speeds (I'm told).

Note that the hoses have to go under the frame (but obviously not where they will be squashed).

If I come across any other issues, I'll add them later.

Cheers
Ian

 

Good call Dave even the fenders look weird??

 

Maybe the car sits nose down when on ground kinda like a rear end lifted nova from the 70s??

 

I can not see how not high enough lift.

 

Quickjack!

Has anyone actually accomplished an Engine-Out Service using the QuickJack? Is there enough clearance?