changed my oil and a foglight using my new quickjack

If you're talking about the Quickjack 5000SLX or similar, there is nowhere near enough clearance.

 

That's what I was afraid of. After writing this, I found the thread that shows how to do the service with a 4-post lift. I have access to one of those and it looks reasonably straightforward.

Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

 

Badabing - What's the ballpark price of the 5000lbs capacity unit and where to buy? Looks like my Bday gift next month. Also don't know why you'd need to lift for brake fluid change. But if just as easy as trolley jack then I'm really sold on this product!

 

It would be if there were castering wheels on all four corners, but there are only wheels at one end, and the jacks are HEAVY. There was a bit of a learning curve when it came to positioning the jacks. It may help if you also had a low profile jack to lift the rear a bit higher to get the rubber blocks in position.

Prices here (free shipping):

https://www.quickjack.com/

 

Lol

 

Thanks Quavion. $1300 for a semi-lift that stores easily in garage? SOLD! My only worry is that I can see myself scratching something even if the 'other' car alongside. Thanks and should be a relief from my years of only low profile jacks, stands, ramps.

 

Not sure if this thread is active. I have a f355 and am considering the quickjack to do an engine out. They have a 7000slx series model, (7000lbs) which i am considering as I have a Tundra as well. i have been spending lots of time researching engine out specs. the 7000 vs the 5000. 1" longer at 71" vs 70" and 1.5" wider at 12.5" vs 11". i don't see these as a concern. However the min height is 4" vs 3.5", the clearance can easily be resolved by placing 1" blocks under the wheels and drive up on them.

Max lift height frame is 18" , but you can buy an adapter kit which makes it 24" lift (i have a solution to fit the kit under the car, 1.)raise it normal without kit, 2.) place jack stands, 3.) lower the lift and put the kit posts in 3.) lift back up. Now i am at 24". Plan B if I need more height, (i may be wrong, but dont think it would affect the stability), but I don't see why one couldn't place the quickjack on top of treated lumber up to (2x 6"x 6" x 6ft) this would create a 12" wide platform and 6" height...now up to 30" lift. treated 6" x 6" have massive structural strength. Just follow the lifting procedures above and add the blocks under the lifts.

Back to the 24" height. the top of the strut tower to the ground is 24" - 25", from what i have found researching is that total engine height is 20". Removing the rear bumper and exhaust, the rear frame rails are at least 12" of extra ground clearance, from my measurements it appears 14" (can anyone confirm?). This leads me to believe that lifting the car 24", removing the rear bumper should give you enough room, over 35" easily. minus 5" for a dolly. From all the posts i have read they recommend jacking the rear 20" f355 ( i understand that if the rear is raised higher than the front the actual back of the car height would increase do to the angle). I would also do the safeguards of placing jack stands under the lift to avoid catastrophic failure as mentioned above.. Appreciate any feedback

 

The length is probably manageable, but it does require a bit of juggling with the position. The jack doesn't go up vertically, but moves in an arc which also limits how long the jack can be. Also, if you're driving up onto wooden blocks, the blocks may interfere with the jack if they are too long. If you make the wooden blocks taller, you will probably have to step them to allow the car to go up onto them (this involves extra block length).

The height is a pain as the Quickjack manual says you're not supposed to load up the jack at zero height. With the rubber blocks fitted to the top of the jack, on a 355 you are at zero height, especially if you have fitted additional rubber blocks as I have... I have shaped some hockey pucks to match the jacking points and to provide additional clearance between the jack and the undertrays). Without the shaped hockey pucks, the jack is supporting the car on the thin body welds.

But, as Badabing has said, he didn't have any problems, so there must be differences between his and my car. Maybe I have different profile tyres or my springs are sagging.