changing 308 plugs

The trick is to use a short extension and not click the retaining ball in.....then once you break them loose you can hand spin the socket.

I also bent a little wire to pull the plug socket out when thru....

Don't hit your head on the hood!

That's all there is to it........LOL! It comes with practice......

BP5ES is good for around town on the older engines if you have fouling troubles, but the 6 heat range should be fine too .....

 

I use a stubby drive, with a short extension, universal, and then the socket with the rubber inside to grip the plug.

After tightening, just wiggle (don't pull) the socket/universal/extension off of the plug so the u-joint doesn't pull out of the socket. Works fine and takes about ten minutes to do the entire thing after you have done it once.

Obviously- use anti-seize and be careful as you tighten them down.

If you are right handed, try to do as many of the front bank as you can reach from the right side of the car. I found I could do them all from the passenger side, but I have long arms.
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I reach in from behind the rear window instead of going UNDER the bonnet - direct access that way...but if you have a spoiler, it might be in the way - not sure.

 

For years, I have used a piece of heater hose to unscrew and remove the plugs once I have broken them loose. To break them loose I use a 3/8 spark plug / swivel / extension/ breaker bar combination much like JWISE. The hose has an ID that just squeezes over the plug. More important, I use the hose to insert and screw in the plugs - no fear of cross threading. As per the front bank, I access it through the lid's rear window opening while standing on an old milk crate. The whole procedure is relatively painless with not much blood letting.

 

If you have the factory tool roll, just use the sparkplug socket/extension that comes in it. It was created for this exact purpose. You can do the whole 5-8 bank in 10 minutes.

 

Same as Pad but using a piece of garden hose about 4" long

 

The rear bank can be done from a beach chair so I am assuming you really mean the front bank.

There are lots of posts in the archives about this but quickly:

1. Put some masking tape on the front edge of your engine bonnet so you can work in the area between it and the rear window and not scratch the paint. This is where you will be reaching in and out to change the plugs.

2. Don't remove any plugs until you have blown sufficient compressed air into the plug recess so that any rust, dirt, sand, junk, etc is clear and will not fall into the threads or combustion chamber.

3. To get the plugs loose and out I use a short extension and a socket that has the "plug holding" foam or rubber in it. I duct tape the extension to the socket so they can't separate (you wouldn't appreciate this if it hasn't happened to you - but some experiences we can all do without)

4. Loosen the plugs with the short extension and ratchet combination and work the plugs out by hand with just the tip of the extension. Use the rubber hose method as mentioned previously or whatever method you are comfortable with to re-install the plugs. I just use the duct taped socket and extension. Make sure you put anti-seize compound on the threads.

there rest is the same as changing plugs on just about any aluminum engined vehicle. Don't use excessive force and if you encounter stiffness as you un thread the plugs, don't keep unthreading them with increasing resistance or you will really damage the threads. Just screw the plug in a turn and out a turn until you have worked past the bind you have encountered. This is what the anti-seize compound prevents (rust and corrosion built up between the threads on the plug and the head.

Good luck with the job. PM me if you have specific questions.

 

I agree completely with Andy on everything, except I don't use rubber hose.
As it comes on rolls,it often has a permanent curl to it, which can make it difficult to start the plug straight. I use a toolmade out of a plug boot, and an end that is held on with cement,and heat shrinktube. It is straight, flexible, and works well. IMO, it is important to take care as he said, aluminum heads are easy to strip threads in and no fun to fix!
HTH
Kermit
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Buy a Porsche 911 spark plug tool--it works like a charm--A LOT EASIER THAN RATCHETS

 

Excellent advice from all. Another DIY post, which is what I plan on doing going forward with my car. Gotta love the older, owner friendly cars!! Always worked on my stuff, now it is time to do the same to the Fcar, it's only nuts and bolts.

 

Steve just a point of interest here I use NGK 5 not 6 . They are a little hotter and don't foul as much on startup . I also get good performance with them at all speeds and long rides get me around 17mpg. Good city performance.