Your posts are internet gold. I love this. Thanks for giving this forum life.
Shamile, what are your thoughts on running the heater to flush out that coolant? Run the car with water in it, drain then fill with coolant. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
If you pull both radiator and both block drains most of the water in the heater is coming out any way. I dont think there is any need to go further. No matter what system you drain, motor oil, gear oil, brake fluid or coolant there will be some small amount left behind (especially motor oil). It is a matter of massive dilution and if done at the correct intervals it works fine.
Who am I to disagree with Rifledriver. His answer says it best. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Makes sense. I was thinking that valves for the heater core would be closed. But they probably made it so it would drain. I was thinking of switching to a waterless coolant at my next engine out. Sent from my ONEPLUS A3000 using Tapatalk
The valve is closed but it is only on one side. The TR holds a lot of coolant, draining as designed will get out a huge percentage of it, far more than many cars. Draining a 599 really requires you turn the car upside down. Ferrari sadly is no longer designing cars that can be maintained as though we intend to keep them a long time.
That's so true! They're so electronically laden and with interdependent systems now. It just makes the car one big continuous headache as all the electronics age...say past 10 years. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice! Sent from my SM-G950U using FerrariChat.com mobile app
No, when the key is "off" the (electrical) TR heater hot water valve is open so that's the best condition for it to drain.
Ok - time for controversy. I don’t pull the drain plugs on the heads. If they have become corroded, they won’t seal properly on the install. They are a large diameter thread that I would not want to repair. Ever pull a plug or bolt along with a handful of threads? Change the fluids WELL within the the coolant’s lifespan and leaving a bit in the heads is irrelevant.
Maybe something to address the next time you have the powerplant removed so have better access to repair with a helicoil/timesert if necessary?
Honestly, I've never had an issue. I change the coolant once a year and put copper anti seize on the threads. If there's a concern, it's going to get done on the major service anyways. When you do the coolant yourself in a year or two, put the anti seize on it then. Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Steve, Does that mean when the car is off the valve is "open" to heat and when started, it shuts? So for the ac to work, the valve would have to shut everytime? Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
Yes, even more often. The hot water valve is actively "held closed" by the electrical system when the key is turned "on" and the AC "off" button is depressed. When you press a different AC button (with the key "on"), a relay removes the constant ground signal from one side of the coil inside the hot water valve and puts that terminal under control by the AC ECU (i.e., the AC ECU supplies a ground signal if it doesn't want to add heat, or conversely, removes the ground signal if it wants to add heat).
I didn't know this. Ever since I got my car back from the major service, I have no heat in the car. Ac works fine and if I turn the knob to heat, the ac shuts off and I can feel outside air temp....but no heat. I thought the valve had frozen "shut" ( key off valve closed) and this is why I wasn't getting any heat. I had the car off line for 6 1/2 years so just thought it was one of those things to get to. But, since the ac is cold....the valve works. Any suggestions where to look to get the heat working? Shamile Freeze....Miami Vice! Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
I have never had a problem with the heater air locking. The valve is quite accessible under the right side of the dash. Pull the plug and see it is is getting power to open and feel the hoses in and out. I have heard of the valves going bad but never experienced it.
1st diagnostic step for your symptom would be to remove the 2-pin connector from the top of the hot water valve (it just pulls off upward and has no polarity IIRC) and measure the DC voltage between the two terminals in the harness connector: 1. Key "on", AC "off" button depressed = should be 12V (valve closed) 2. Key "on", any other AC button depressed, temp knob set to maximum temp = should be 0V (valve open) If you pass those tests, but no heat = either a stuck-closed/broken valve or maybe one of the heater lines kinked or blocked. If you fail test #2 = could be a stuck (oddball) relay d (Fig. 9), bad AC ECU, or bad sensor. First thing to do here would be to perform the five resistance checks at the unplugged AC ECU connector described on pages H29 and H30 of the TR WSM. Good Hunting!
