Changing spark plugs and learning to do my own repairs

Hmm, had no real issues exchanging the spark plugs on the rear bank, you get used to it after doing it several times A foldable spark wrench helps a lot and if you did not do it before, removing the air box makes this a bit easier.

You can actually remove the distributor without removing the rear wheel.
• Mark the position of the distributor with a Sharpie by drawing a line across the distributor/fiber ring/engine block.
• Remove the inner wheel housing by removing the screws, then move the wheel housing to the side to have access to the distributor.
• Loosen the distributor cap screws, then move the distributor cap/wires upwards or to the side.
• Mark the position of the ignition rotor blade on the distributor for reinstalling later on.
• Remove the three screws on the distributor body, then pull out the distributor. Take care that the inner fiber ring on the cam end does not get lost.

For reinstalling make sure that the rotor points in the same direction as before (see mark).

 

One of the few times that the factory tool kit has a quality item which is great for the job is the spark plug wrench. Alternatively get a socket adapter for the same and it is all by feel unless you have a workman's mirror to assist you.

I applaud you diving in and learning more about your doing things around your Dino; just another way they are such an engaging Ferrari!

 

Sorry if this is obvious but......When replacing the plugs on the front bank' be mindful of the possibility of cross threading. Start the plug threading off by hand. Rotate in both directions to satisfy yourself the all is correct.

 

I would remove the lower bolt / nut holding the lid support arm. Allows the lid to rotate more (more room to get to the front plugs). (Use a longer support to keep it in position)

 

Good idea! If you also remove the six hinge screws and remove the lid you'll have even better access and don't need to remove the air box.

 

I know it opens the space, but turns a simple plug change into a long affair with the attendant danger of dropping the engine lid or scratching bodywork when putting it back.

my main gripe is dirt I can't see that may find its way into the engine. so a mirror, an air hose a cold engine and...attention to the angle of the plug spanner, wrench, socket, whatever, so as not to break the plug itself.

 

No oil but Bosch Distributor Lube, part 5 700 002 005. The felt next to the cam gets 2-3 drops of oil after reassembly.

• Remove the top bezel with the three screws. You might need to file down the screwdriver tip a bit to avoid damaging the screws, as the slots of the top screws are quite thin.
• Remove the top bearing with a bearing puller
• Remove the six black screws on the bottom
• Carefully pull out the axle with the drum and advance mechanism (see photo)
• Check condition of the top and bottom bearing, replace if required. For the bottom bearing you need to drill out the rivets to have access to the bearing.
• Clean the distributor body and remove any old grease/dirt on the inside
• Check the condition of the points, terminal and condenser

For the disassembly of the axle/drum with the advance mechanism, make sure you document exactly where each part was in which order. If you happen to mix up any of the springs, pins, weights or washers you need a distributor tester to get back to the original advance curve.

• Mark one side of the lobe cam, shim, advance weight and drum axle for correct reassembly later on
• Remove the circlip on the top part of the axle holding the lobe cam in place, remove lobe cam and clean it
• Remove both set of weights and mark each corresponding drum axle. Clean drum and check inside of drum for depressions made by the pins in the weights. Small depressions can be sanded out, if you have larger depressions then you need to rotate the axles in the drum by 30º and have them rivetted back in by a machine shop. Do not weld, this will damage/distort the drum.
• Check condition of the two axles in the drum, they should not have visible wear or even uneven wear. If the weights have too much play sitting on the drum axles, drill out the holes in the weights a bit and fit custom made brass bearings to avoid further wear on the drum axles.
• Check the condition of the black plastic shim on the axle where the weights touch the axle. If it's damaged or broken, produce a new one out of nylon or teflon but keep the thickness of the shim wall identical to the old one.
• Clean each weight/spring/pin/shim/washers, make sure not to mix up any part. Regrease the spring/pin/shim lightly with Bosch distributor grease.
• Grease the axles in the drum with Bosch grease and reinstall weights
• Grease cam axles/shims on the weights and main axle, reinstall lobe cam and circlip
• Reassemble everything, presto!

This sounds more complicated than it actually is. The tricky part is only to not mix up things in the process,

good luck,
Adrian
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Adrian is the best.
Yes, before unfastening any spark plugs blow out the plug well area with compressed air.
Use copper anti-seize on the threads before re-installing for ease in removing later and superior electrical contact.

When starting the threads by hand rotate the spark plug backwards until you feel a "click". That is the thread start passing over the well begin point and is your best chance at starting the threading correctly. Then proceed by hand to thread forwards three rotations before using any tools.

 

and wear clothes with no metal zips/ buttons or you will scratch the wings leaning over!-very easily done

 

Forgot to mention that bit

 

Adrian: printed it out is now part of the workshop manual.

 

Here is also a drawing of the parts in case you get lost somewhere
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