Charcoal Canister | FerrariChat

Charcoal Canister

Discussion in '308/328' started by Mike Florio, Jul 9, 2009.

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  1. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    After replacing all my fuel lines ('75 308/GT4) I decided to restore/replace the charcoal canister. After doing some research on the net I found that they should be replaced every 10 years and replacements for even common cars cost $60+ - I could imagine what a real replacement could cost for this car (Hint: even back in 1988 exact replacements were unavailable). I also found a few articles on rebuilding one, so I said, "What the heck?" Nothing as involved as MKE's project, but it does involve aquarium supplies and a $1.99 kitchen strainer. I don't want to waste space with a post nobody's interested in, so let me know on this thread if you are interested, and how many votes you think ought to decide the issue.
     
  2. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
    Full Name:
    Doug
    My canister is getting sh*tcanned shortly. Actually, I won't throw it away, it will just go into the box with the air pump and other emission stuff I don't use anymore.

    Interestingly enough, it is empty, and has been since I got the car in 1984. I have no reason to suspect the original owner emptied it, I don't think it ever had carbon in it.

    Doug
     
  3. pippo

    pippo Formula 3

    Sep 25, 2005
    1,913
    FL
    Full Name:
    pippopotemus
    Heck, go ahead with it. Im interested. Sure sounds like fun, and keeps the mind going too. Charcoal canisters should last longer than 10 yrs, although maybe less for carb cars(?) Get going to the pet shop!
     
  4. Sledge4.2

    Sledge4.2 F1 Rookie

    Oct 19, 2007
    4,784
    Marin
    Full Name:
    Geno
    post it up...i am in there as we speak.
     
  5. SoCal308GTSiQV

    SoCal308GTSiQV Formula Junior

    Nov 3, 2008
    585
    Ojai, Ca.
    Full Name:
    Chris
    I'm in California, so I'll never be getting rid of any emissions equipment. So please post the procedure. And post where the darn thing is on the car! Thanks
     
  6. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
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    Doug
    It is the thing about the size of a 1 liter tomato juice can mounted next (passenger side) of the radiator fill/expansion tank.

    Doug
     
  7. Spitfire

    Spitfire Formula 3

    Nov 16, 2006
    1,602
    I think the OEM part is NLA, so I'd like to know what the procedure is for reconditioning one of these. Lots of photos please!
     
  8. Beta Scorpion

    Beta Scorpion Formula 3

    Jun 22, 2006
    1,379
  9. irondogmike

    irondogmike F1 Rookie

    Sep 8, 2006
    2,532
    San Diego area
    Full Name:
    Michael Tucker
    my expansion tank is on the drivers side,what car is this on your talking about?
     
  10. jonesdds

    jonesdds Formula 3

    Aug 31, 2006
    2,160
    SB,CA & Park City UT
    Full Name:
    Jeff
    '75 GT4 in the post.
     
  11. irondogmike

    irondogmike F1 Rookie

    Sep 8, 2006
    2,532
    San Diego area
    Full Name:
    Michael Tucker
    oh,sorry about that I should've read the post alittle better,poor eyes:)
     
  12. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
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    Doug
    #12 AZDoug, Jul 13, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I was implying that the carbon canister is mounted passenger side of the rad fill tank, not making a statement of where the rad fill tank was located, though the rad fill tank is located to the passenger (US passenger, LH drive) side of the engine torque arm also on my 1978/1979 car.

    The canister the round thingie next to the expansion tank

    Doug
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  13. irondogmike

    irondogmike F1 Rookie

    Sep 8, 2006
    2,532
    San Diego area
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    Michael Tucker
    sorry Doug,its just on my 308qv its on the drivers side and I got confused
     
  14. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    #14 Mike Florio, Jul 27, 2009
    Last edited by a moderator: Sep 7, 2017
    I finally got around to finishing this task. I hope it helps others out.

    The charcoal canister is really a passive emission control device – it has a negligible effect on performance. What it does do is satisfy the requirement that no raw fuel be vented to the atmosphere. That meant no more breather holes in the gas cap, and no more venting the gas tank to atmosphere. But we all know altitude and temperature changes can change the pressure in the gas tank. Too much pressure and something goes POP. Too little (vacuum) and your fuel tank may collapse like a beer can. There is another thread on this site where this happened to a 348.

    The activated charcoal in the canister absorbs gas fumes, which come in through the top tap; and gives them up when the engine is running through the bottom tap which is connected to the intake manifold. The manual says the canister should be replaced every 10 years, so at 35 years mine was a bit overdue.

    I did some research on the web and found generic replacements (the original is unobtainable) cost $60+ and have a different configuration (three ports rather than 2); but I also ran across another article that said they were cheap and easy to rebuild, and included instructions and a tip: the activated charcoal is the same stuff used in aquarium filters. I ordered mine online from www.marinedepot.com The product number is

    EV2210 ESV GRANULAR ACTIVATED CARBON 1LB 1 $11.99

    Shipping was $7. (I have no affiliation blah… blah… blah)

    The other replacement item I needed was a screen at the bottom of the filter. I checked several sources for Stainless Steel screen, and all required an outrageous shipping charge for overpriced screen. I bought a $1.99 strainer at the grocers and cut the screen out: perfect fit!

    THE PROCEDURE

    1) Cut the top off the canister. I used a Dremel with a diamond cutting blade. The top is about 3mm thick. Try to leave as much of the raised lip running around the top to provide a good glue surface for reassembly.

    2) Here’s what you’ll find inside (activated charcoal not displayed)

    3) El Cheapo stainless steel screen

    4) El Cheapo Activated Carbon (charcoal)

    5) Here’s the activated charcoal from the canister and from the aquarium supply: The stuff on the right is the original (or is it the stuff on the left? I can’t remember) as you can tell, they look pretty much the same.

    5) Reassembly: Clean and dry all plastic pieces. I also rinsed the composition filter (looks like felt) and the foam filter in distilled water and dried them for a few days.

    Fit the stainless steel screen over the standpipe in the canister, then place the composition (felt) filter over it.

    Place the small plastic disburser over the standpipe.

    Pour about ¾ liter of the new activated carbon into the canister. Leave about ¾ inch space at the top.

    Insert the foam filter, the spider and the spring.

    Glue the top back on, compressing the spring. This is the hardest part of the job. I tried several types of epoxy, then found JB Weld did the best job. The plastic is some kind of thermoplastic (ABS?) which melts when machined. If the JB Weld doesn’t hold I’m going to resort to heat welding (fusing) the top on. I’d show some pictures of this procedure, but they are ugly, and not befitting a prestigious website like this one.
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  15. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
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    Doug
    You can get stainless wire mesh in about any wire diameter/mesh rating from McMaster-Carr for about maybe $12/sq foot, shipping is perhaps $6-$7 dollars. (They call it wire mesh, not screen). 009" wire, 20 or 30 mesh would seem like a good choice here.

    Back to the carbon canisters:

    I decided there are two on my car, the big one by the radiator expansion tank and a smaller one above the right rear tire. At least i think it is a charcoal can, maybe it is a surge can of some sort to keep liquid fuel out of the big carbon can.

    It got put in the never to used again spare parts box also. AZ has 25 year sunset on emissions stuff for collector cars.

    Doug
     
  16. Mike Florio

    Mike Florio Formula Junior

    Jun 19, 2003
    599
    NW Rural Nevada
    Full Name:
    Mike Florio
    Right, you can spend $20 at McMaster-Carr or $1.99 at the grocery store for what you need. I was going to spend $60 on a GM carbon canister, cut it open and use the activated charcoal, but then I found the same stuff for $12 at the aquarium supplier. My mantra: "El Cheapo is OK, but watch out for El Junko."
     
  17. AZDoug

    AZDoug Formula 3

    Jun 17, 2009
    1,606
    Along the Verde , AZ
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    Doug
    Just make sure wha'cha got is stainless and not plated steel, otherwise you will be rebuilding that canister again sooner rather that later. :)

    Doug
     
  18. mike996

    mike996 F1 Veteran

    Jun 14, 2008
    6,828
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    Mike 996
    Why bother doing this at all? It has no effect on tailpipe emissions or engine performance. I don't believe that any state emissions inspection will detect a problem unless the cannister is actually missing.
     
  19. miketuason

    miketuason F1 World Champ
    Owner Silver Subscribed

    Feb 24, 2006
    15,766
    Cerritos, CA.
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    Mike
    Mike, some of the smog station here in CA. do inspect the canister for both visual and functional.
     
  20. Foxy348

    Foxy348 Karting

    Jun 21, 2008
    86
    Dubai
    Full Name:
    Noel Ebdon
    Sorry if I am missing the obvious here, but can I just empty the canister and run the car like that? Mine is blocked up and needs sorting, as it's causing pressure to build up in my petrol tank.

    We have almost zero emissions regs here (Dubai), but from what I am reading it doesn't effect the readings anyway.

    Does anyone know?
     
  21. Irishman

    Irishman F1 Rookie

    Oct 13, 2005
    3,524
    Raleigh
    Full Name:
    Kevin
    +1

    The canister over the right fuel tank...

    The sphere just fore of the shock tower...

    The fuel vapor filter at the rear...

    What needs to stay and what can go???

    Not including the stuff above I have all kinds of blocked off stuff already (by other people, not me).

    I do not live in California.
     

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