Charred "W" Connector Repair Kits

Unless you really enjoy self abuse and virtually unlimited frustration, trade that FB in on a new one. Guido makes a beautiful replacement that requires a bit of time and labor to wire, but once done is bulletproof. GT Parts in Phoenix also makes a great "plug-and-play" replacement. Their customer service is also great. Dave Helms makes a new board that removes some of the more power draining circuits. A bit more expensive, but most likely the gold standard.
I have the GT board in my car, and it is the single best upgrade I have made to the car in three plus years of ownership.
Your car, and your blood pressure, will thank you.

 

Guido/Steve - thank you both for all of your input on this...I will proceed slowly and carefully when I first put 12v back on in the car (which will be several months from now)...I bought a non-running project car in early 2021 that hadn't been on the road since the early 1990s and it's been great getting all the expert advice from people like you...again, much appreciated and I am sure I will be back with other questions - Joe

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Here are some ideas on my fuse box de-bugging that would be good to get your reactions to:

1) On the black wire that was added to the back of the fuse box (soldered to the middle relay on the right side of the box - looking from the front of the box), if I kept this added wire, would it be good to add an in-line fuse between the black wire and where it meets the beige wire (on W connector) that goes to the fuel pump?

2) Same question on the green wire on the W connector (according to the Euro QV wiring diagram this seems to be for the stop light switch??) where the added wire goes into the driver side cockpit and is connected to a yellow wire in a molex connector - if I kept the wiring as I found it, would it be a good idea to add an inline fuse?

Any help is big help - Thank you

 

Joe, with all respect ! That you are willing to continue with this board is a riddle for me. Let me tell you what will happen = you drive at night, and suddenly you are without lights....you drive and out of the blue its starts raining, and you are without windshield wipers,...you drive and your engine stops, no brake booster....and I can go one like this for hours. Not a good idea to try keeping that car with his original board.

 

Appreciate your feedback but in the interest of trying to save $1,500+ at this juncture I am going to try to make this one work for now...Why? Because it is not delaminated and shows no signs of damage.. I know you guys hate the bullet fuses but I have them in my Pantera and if you "look after them" you can make them work...If it's a problem when I get around to trying to get the car running (several months away), I can spring for a new board then (and I know who to contact!) - Thank you again - Joe

 

Alden, I'm not sure to understand. With that GT Car parts board you still have burned connectors ? After that newer board was installed or the PO owner did not change the burned connectors ? If this is the case, it proves that the little male connectors where the wires are put, are not doing the job that is needed for the current going true them.