Check Engine light on 1998 355 F1Spider

I see Eurospares has a used arm for U$575.

P/N 63690600

I wonder why it broke?

 

How strange. There seems to be something I've overlooked here. If the roof is not latched, the windows drop. The only way of getting the windows to move again is having the roof fully down (as sensed by the slider switch) or by relatching the roof.

What was stopping the windows moving with the roof fully down? Did you refit the slider switch (near the passenger door)?

Anyway, that sounds like very good news.

 

So even now they don't move by themselves. This tells me that the mechanics may have unplugged something related to the windows during the converstion. Maybe they simply disconnected one of the plugs on the Window ECU. With the "B" plug removed, the Window ECU probably reverts to being a GTB or GTS Window ECU. There is no input from the windshield switch, the slider switch or the windows 2 inches down switches (in the doors) with the B plug removed.

Note that the 348 Spider, even though it doesn't have roof hydraulic control, it still has automatic window control so you don't break the window glass when putting the roof down/up.

 

Ugh... And the obvious flaw in that theory is that the windshield switch also goes through the "B" plug. Your windows started working after you fixed the hook, so the windshield microswitch must still be working.

I still have no idea why your windows are not operating automatically.

 

Usually when they change out the exhaust it throws the check engine light, so they delete the check engine to put the cat bypass pipes in. Does it have factory exhaust?

 

Hi. About your windows that do not work when your top was down. Your thread has now changed topics to your broken piece on the top. But, about your windows that do not work when the top is down. This summer I had that problem, on my spider, windows worked with the top up. But would not work with the top down. So I basically had to decide, before putting the top down, where I wanted the windows. Anyway, I did exactly as described in the thread I have pasted below. And everything is working perfectly now.
Meaning I ordered the same switch, and replaced the broken switch myself. I understand you are not a handy person, you said that. 1.Even so, I think you could do this repair. If you decide to do it yourself, I have a suggestion about the soldering, which is in tight quarters.* 2. If you do not do it, you will have the switch required for another mechanic to do it. With the directions in the thread, it is very easy.
https://www.ferrarichat.com/forum/threads/how-to-repair-f355-spider-top-sensor-for-power-windows.522719/
*I was having a problem doing the soldering, and having my heat shrink tubing getting too hot during the soldering. My one suggestion to the thread I linked, would be to buy these new connectors (on amazon, listing below), where you slide the connector on one wire, create a mechanical connection between your two wires by bending them together, and then slide the Shrink butt connector solder sleeve over the stripped wires, and then heat shrink the package, and everything is good. They basically are solder and heat shrink tubing together in one tube.
Kuject 120PCS Solder Seal Wire Connectors, Self-Solder Heat Shrink Butt Connector Solder Sleeve Waterproof Insulated Electrical Butt Splice Wire Terminals for Marine Automotive Boat Truck Wire Joint

 

Thanks for the reminder, Mike, but it was proved that the switch was not at fault. Normally, the switch goes open circuit when the ram extends (fully down). This was simulated by disconnecting the switch (and the windows still did not work)

Also, the roof has been disabled, so the primary rams may not even be installed or may be hanging loose, so there will be nothing to activate the switch.



At 2:25 you can see the switch disconnected.

Unfortunately, it's not clear what has been done to the wiring during Dennis' conversion.