At least it is on warranty. Is it likely, if I purchased a Ferrari, that Ferrari mechanics and service would offer the same "boo-boos" or is their experinence better? Well here's the rant on my C5 Corvette: 1 - I told the service writer that the immediate problem is the drivers side sensor/bearing and that the code is still in the system to insure no mix up with the terms left and right I said drivers side. Even joked with him about that. Corvette computer display the code number on the dash. 1-A Of course, the tech installed the wrong side. I took three months to get this fix and apparently when I first drove in and reported this, the code 1226 was in the system as they pulled it and wrote it down. Apparently. 2 - They broke a steel brake line on this wrong side...else I would never have known and I would still have code 1225. They called to say, "we have a problem". 2-A While installing, they did not secure brake caliper; dangling on it's weight the Goodridge steel brake line/ hose broke at the fitting. 2-B The caliper has impact marks from the fall. So I bring them a brake line, as it is an upgraded line. 3 - While there I ask them if they ran the code and they ran the current code and found...yep driver's side 1225. 3-A Can we say back assward. 3-B As this is now a loser to re-do 1226, they go and repair 1225 also. So for this burden, I am set with two new front sensors, even though my warranty goes to 2006. Even wear, which is a good thing in a sports car. 4 - And let not forget...no jacking pucks...they raised it my aftermarket rocker panel impact protector rails. Corvette body work wraps under the frame, so these pucks insert to add a surface when one can lift the car. 4- This cracked the drivers side lower rear mounting bolt area again. So now I go and get them the high tolerance (Ford Hi Performance) wet and dry boiling point brake fluid. Of course there is a parts delay for the second sensor. So now it is the next day, and I decide my expertise could help the mechanic with the routing/ twisting of the brake line so it doesn't hit the tire. I also have a feeling that I need to help tie up the caliper on the driver side when they remove the wheel. (Also, this is when I get the truth about how the brake line broke). I have a conversation with the mechanic pointing out the Kent-Moore jacking pucks and the inserts in the frame and also point out the recommend emergency jacking points along with everything I know to help him fix the car (and a couple jokes) and then I leave. So now I pick up the vehicle. 5 Within one mile code 1225 sets again. 5A So I pull the drivers wheel myself. I find the oval shaped rubber seal to the new sensor wiring harness clip is missing. Call the shop. Yep they have it still on the old part so I go and pick it up. I also check the pig tail wiring harness from the sensor to the main harness and amps go through it .even jiggling it around. Then I check the main harness and I get volts on one of the two wire. I assume this is OK. As a last resort, I bend the female electric connectors so they would fit tighter. 6 Now I am scared, so I also pull the passenger side to see if this same part was left out. 6A I find brake fluid stains in the plastic black wheel house (won't clean off). A broken rubber brake bleeder rubber cap and, of course, air in the brake line, but the oval rubber seal part was there. 6-B I die-electric grease the fitting at the sensor, bleed the brakes and plastic repair the rear of the fender .repair everything, except the rubber cap which I do not have. Oh ya, also clean the brake fluid off the inner rim, tire and a-arm. Went on a eight mile test drive and no codes set. The mechanic did tell me they checked the front toe (after I mentioned this is in the repair manual for this procedure)and it was the same on each side, so I guess the way they replaced the sensors (only broke loose the lower ball joint, removed the rotor) no alignment is called for. Seems to drive as good as usual so it is fixed (I hope). I really truly am giving up on GM service. I think I will just not respond to this dealer's CSI survey. As long as the code doesn'tt reset, I only have to order the bleeder cap, double check for wear on the brake line where it touches the shock, remove the bleeder, install the cap and re-bleed the system. I am done ranting now. But I am curious, is this comedy of errors (forgeting parts, not knowing how to lift a car, dangling calipers etc.) the same with Ferrari service? Maybe Allen could add about Lamborghini service?